I belive it is the 61X.xx engine  It's a 300t '82 the
Odo reads 129k  (but I suspect it might have been
turned at the shady car lot I bought it from...)

I decided to set the vavles and button her up and do
the work after another few thousand miles or so (the
end of summer.)  Teh sprocket looks good and for the
most part, everything "seems" really tight in
there...)  the rest of the car has some issues that
need fixed first and I suspect my transmition 

Still   I've just read through three service manuals
about the procedure and it doesn't seem "to" hard to
change...  A little grinding and a feed through the
gears withthe wire "trick" ...(almost like an old bike
chain removal)

Almost wondering if I should do it while I have
everything open and in the garage....  Wondering if it
will make THAT dramatic of a improvment...  but I
don't want the thing flying apart on the road either. 
I hear that pretty much kills the engine... and thisis
the one thing you want to keepup on on these old
engines...




Thanks for your advice!



--- Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> hue wong wrote:
> > Hi all!
> > 
> > Just had a chance to chek the reading and it looks
> > like it's exactly 5 degrees off.  
> > 
> > (if the mesurement is:  the mark on the cam guide
> > collar and top notch on the bearing tower at 3'
> oclock
> > are aligned and are supposed to match/lineup with
> the
> > top post/nub/zero degrees on the bottom timing
> gauge
> > on teh crankcase housing?)
> > 
> > And if this is bad, then How hard and what exactly
> is
> > the procedure to swap out the timing chain?
> > 
> > Is is a timing chain swap, or do sprockets and
> > tensioners and railguides, ect need to be swapped
> out
> > as well!  
> 
> Well if you're talking about a 61x.9x engine with 5
> degrees of stretch 
> you have time to plan and carry out the change when
> it's convenient (if 
> you have a 60x engine you it's a little more
> urgent). It can safely be 
> done any time in the next 10-20kmi. The system is
> designed so that ONLY 
> the chain and tensioner (or at least it's spring)
> need to be changed if 
> it's done in a timely manner. No need to change the
> sprocket unless its 
> hooked or the guides unless they are DEEPLY grooved
> (they are expected 
> to be changed when the engine is rebuilt from the
> ground up - usually at 
> about 500kmi). Chains almost NEVER break until the
> stretch approaches 
> 9-10 degrees.
> 
> After you change the chain, the car WILL run and
> usually start better!
> 
> Marshall
> -- 
>         Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned
> questions)
>        "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> '87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5
> turbo 237kmi, '84 
> 190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)
> 
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