I guess it sounds plausible. Looking at the part though, it's pretty corroded from the center to about 2/3 of the way out each of the arms. It would take a good amount of time with a die grinder to get all of that down to clean metal. Plus fitting the wood and gluing, figuring out a way to clamp it ensuring that the shaft stays perpendicular (the drum spins at 1300 RPM), etc.
It's frustrating that this part is not a forged piece of stainless steel. Cost vs. expected lifetime I guess, few people will complain if their washer breaks down after 13 years of service. Honestly I'd probably give it a try if I were living on my own, but in a household the tolerance level for fooling around with repairs while the dirty laundry piles up is pretty low. Definitely an approach I will keep in mind however. Allan Jim Cathey <jim.cathey...@gmail.com> writes: >> IDK about that.... As you can see by all the gunk and corrosion this is >> a part that is wet and at least partially submerged when the washer is >> running. Can't really imagine wood and JB weld holding up for long? > > I can. For starters, trees are wet 100% of the time while living. But the > main factor is that I'm talking about basically rolling the wood in epoxy, > completely coating it, pouring a little epoxy in the trough, then pushing > the coated wood down into the trough. Then pour more on and trowel > it down so that it's completely filling the gaps across the break. No wood > will be exposed to water. The wood is there to give the area some flexible > strength, like the back of a sword (which ideally is not as hard as the > cutting edge), but mostly to fill the gap so you don't need stupid amounts > of the epoxy. Glue works very well if you can get enough surface area > involved. Hence filling the trough, etc. > > For more strength, epoxying thin strips of steel over the back side of > the breaks would not be a bad idea, if they can fit without interference. > As with the wood, coat the steel so that no rust would ever start. The > steel is for strength, the surface area is for the glue. Maybe inch-long > strips, inch and a half. Something like that. The metal must all be CLEAN, > and rough. > > This kind of repair, done well, would outlast the rest of the machine. > > The only problem with pot metal like this is that they never make it thick > enough to not eventually break in service. Window regulators in Mercedes > cars are a prime example. > _______________________________________ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
