old one internally. I did try resoldering the old one, with no
change in
behavior (except that I got a headache, despite decent ventilation,
from the
melting of the epoxy coating or whatever it is that's on so many of
these
old boards).
Resoldering does not work unless you first strip the board of the
protective varnish that's on the back. Too much contamination
otherwise.
I don't know enough about electronics to get much out of the
broken relay, so I'm willing to send it to anyone (Jim?) who wants to
dissect it or attempt a component-level repair. There sure are more
components in it than I expected---ICs, diodes, and caps, oh my! I'll
even
pay the postage in the interest of Science. (But if you get it
working and
plan to sell it, you have to offer me right of first refusal!)
I'd be happy to have a stab at it, I've never had a bad one of my
own to mess with. Jim Cathey, S. 6021 Campbell Rd. Greenacres, WA
99016
I cleaned the contacts of the compressor
sensor...They were pretty grimy...toothbrush saturated with contact
cleaner in from the side and give things a good scrubbing...resistance
across the sensor is a little lower (though still not within the spec
in the
FSM), about 800 ohms instead of 900.
That it moved down means you're on the right track, but I've usually
found that a wire brushing and/or scraping to burnish the contacts
themselves is also required to bring them all the way back from the
dead.
rather old, beat-up set of feeler gauges. I really had to dig to find
them. When was the last time I worked on a car with points?
Those of us with 616 and 617 motors also find them occasionally useful!
-- Jim