Dillon, Meade LCDR wrote:
> Dieselvolk,
> =
> Last fall I picked up an '85 190D 2.2 5spd that popped up at a local
> dealer. 104k miles, full documentation. I've been gradually sorting
> out the issues (mostly minor: hood strut was weak, antenna wouldn't
> fully retract, LR window needed to be cleaned/lubed before it would move
> up and down). One issue was that the cruise control did not work. I
> found that a piece of the linkage was missing (cross piece from near top
> of IP over to actuator), installed a new piece from Rusty, and voila!
> Cruise was back in operation.
> =
> However, one problem is still kicking my butt. It had a somewhat rough
> idle when I bought it, and that has only gotten worse. At idle, the
> engine is shaking the car so badly that the hood vibrates and the front
> seats vibrate. Engine seemed to be rather carboned up (lots and LOTS of
> smoke first time I test drove it - used that against the salesman)
> having only been driven 5k miles a year or less, largely around town.
> When the engine is dead cold, idle is better because idle speed is
> increased. When warm, if I hold the idle at 900 RPM or higher, it is
> smooth. Sometimes the idle is REALLY rough, sometimes better, once or
> twice it was much better after 8) below.
> =
> My actions thus far:
> 1) Drive it hard and fast.
> 2) Diesel Purge treatment, straight through system at full strength
> 3) Measure engine mount clearance - passed this test easily, so I left
> the mounts alone.
> 4) Qt of brand new ATF added to a tank of fuel
> 5) Cracked each injection line one at a time, but there was no obvious
> difference for any cylinder
> 6) Disconnected/plugged vacuum to EGR
> 7) Pulled all injectors and had them cleaned and pressure tested,
> pressure reset (The shop that did this, Bosch certified, screwed it up
> the first time. Three of four injectors leaked at joint in middle of
> injector body, I had to pull them and return to shop for re-work)
> 8) Pulled delivery valves and replaced copper washers, springs, and
> O-rings; used proper torqueing procedure from Technical Data Manual
> (tighten to 30 Nm, release, tighten to 35 Nm, release, tighten to 35Nm).
> Now, I'd taken all the admonitions about clean-clean-clean to heart, so
> I sprayed off top of IP with brake cleaner, then blew it off with
> compressed air prior to removing anything. Nevertheless, when I pulled
> out each delivery valve assembly, there was visible black specs of junk
> inside each assembly and visible in the hole on the top of the IP. It
> really seemed to me that all the fuel inside the pump was contaminated
> with this junk. ** This fact has me concerned - could there be some
> internal seal or rubber bit that is disintagrating and dumping junk
> inside the IP? Is this mircrobial growth? Clear filter still seems to
> be clean and free. **
> 9) Took the car on a long highway trip. I drove about 450 miles at 70+
> miles per hour. After that, idle seemed to be even rougher.
> =
> I'm about to take it to my Indie, unless someone here has a bright idea.
> Mileage is decent (33 mpg around town, I think I got about 35 on the
> trip up). Car starts quickly, and does not smoke. Air and both fuel
> filters are new.
> =
> Next thing I'm going to do is remove the piece of linkage for the CC. I
> found it rather odd that this one piece was missing, and the system
> worked fine once it was installed.
> =
> After that, I'm going to really think hard about replacing the injector
> pump, and if that doesn't work, the motor mounts even though they are
> not collapsed. I'll probably also look at the engine stop adjustment.
> I've never played with one of those before, not sure if maladjustment or
> aging of those pieces would cause a rough idle.
I'd suggest a dose of anti-biotic in the fuel (to insure that ALL of the =
bugs are dead) followed by as many Diesel Purge (using the can or =
mayonnaise jar technique to hold the Diesel Purge concentrate as outline =
in the attachment) treatments as it takes to make the return line =
effluent absolutely clear (if the effluent is clear, then so is the fuel =
in the injection pump). Then maybe a qt of 10W30 conventional oil in the =
fuel tank and after that's finished running thru the fuel system, THEN =
see if the engine doesn't run better. Putting in a different injection =
pump without a real diagnosis isn't an economical strategy and the =
replacement pump may well be no less worn or out of adjustment than =
yours. One must ask WHY someone is selling a pump!
If the injectors leaked at the center joint, the pressure settings would =
be questionable UNLESS they were tested again and adjusted to meet =
standards. Which cylinder is bad? That needs to be established to see if =
it's the injection pump or an injector. Have you tried moving injectors =
to different cylinders?
I have found that removing the air filter housing and running the engine =
so that you can hear the air going into each cylinder can provide clues =
as to which cylinder is misbehaving (they should all sound exactly =
alike). Holding your had over each one should cause identical engine =
stumble.
Marshall
-- =
Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
"der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 =
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)
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