That is great input.
On 4/5/2022 8:57 PM, dan penoff.com via Mercedes wrote:
Or something else to add to the back 40!
-D
On Apr 5, 2022, at 6:52 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
wrote:
This machine has 2 pressure transducers one for the low side and one for
accumulator. When I switch the connectors between the 2 the error changes to
accumulator pressure error so to me that tells me the low pressure one is bad.
If I leave the connections disconnected I get no error. The bigger problem is
why it’s venting refrigerant. I suppose I could pay the diagnostic fee and see
what I am looking at. Just afraid even if I get it fixed then something else
goes wrong. I guess I could buy that one like mine and keep this one for parts.
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 5, 2022, at 8:42 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
wrote:
If it were me and I trusted the shop I would probably pay the $180 for the
diagnostic. Once you know what's wrong, you can decide whether to have them
repair it, do it yourself, or replace it.
Otherwise it's a careful, deliberate process of testing and elimination to
figure out what is wrong and repair it. What is your time worth?
On Tue, Apr 5, 2022, at 9:24 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes wrote:
I have a Robinair 34788 fully automatic machine that I have had for
about 4 or so years now. Nearest I can tell it is probably 10-15 years
old, not sure. Per the menu look like it has has around 2600 lbs ran
thru it. Not sure if that is a lot or not for these machines. Anyway,
last year it got to where it was throwing a low pressure error when you
turn it on, then gives an oil drain error when doing a recovery.
Several times it has ended up venting all of its stored R134 thru the
vacuum vent line into the oil drain bottle. I also suspect the ball
valves on top of the internal tank are leaking. I am betting the low
pressure error is the low pressure transducer. I also tested the
solenoids and they all appear to work so I am thinking the oil drain
error could be the circuit board. When it is supposed to be doing an oil
drain it never even opens the solenoid.
Called a local service place for these and if they come here its $250
for the drive plus $180 for the diagnostic, or I can take it to Tulsa
and just pay the $180, then pay whatever labor for the repairs plus
parts. Assuming it needs all 3 ball valves those are around $60 each.
The transducer is around $150 to $180 depending on the website. Circuit
board is about $350. So if it actually needs all this I would probably
be looking at a grand to fix this machine. That does not factor in any
additional labor.
I would always just order the transducer and see if that fixes the rest
of the problems (which I am not hopeful of), or pay the $180 to see what
is wrong and what it would cost to fix it. I am however considering
just buying a newer machine. There is one exactly like mine but appears
to have been used a lot less and includes a 30lb cylinder:
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/5143233472435476/?ref=search&referral_code=marketplace_search&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3Adc0e9849-915e-40a4-b3d5-28817f9adfa7
Also looking at these:
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/965256667454473?ref=search&referral_code=marketplace_search&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3Adc0e9849-915e-40a4-b3d5-28817f9adfa7
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/274691608128011?ref=search&referral_code=marketplace_search&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3Adc0e9849-915e-40a4-b3d5-28817f9adfa7
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/698606498164730/?ref=saved&referral_code=null
I know these are a lot of money but I actually do quite a bit of AC work
for my own fleet of cars and projects. Anybody have any thoughts on
fixing mine or spending the money on a newer one?
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