Jim Cathey wrote:
The clock was again wrong today, it obviously needs some attention.
I jacked up the parts car (sadly back in the woods, which slowed the
procedure somewhat) and removed the rear suspension link that matches
the bad one on the car. It looked good. I then swapped it into place
in the car, which went very smoothly. The car had a clip-on plastic
splash shield on its link, which I moved to the good one. I then put
the bad link back into the parts car, it seemed like the best place to
store it and maybe it'll hold things together better. The right rear
wheel no longer has slop in it.
While I was under the car I loosened the parking brake about three
flats. Probably about two too many I found out when I lowered the
car. I'll get it dialed in perfectly one day. The left parking brake
cable sheath is broken, but the one on the parts car is still good.
Another someday.
Intermittent clock function CAN result if even one of the Phillips
screws in the instrument cluster is not tight. The ground connection is
made by the pressure that the screws apply to the PC board buss. That
has happened in several of my 201s. Beating on the dash sometimes
restored function - at least temporarily.
When clock in my '84 190D experienced voltage spikes above 16V from a
berserk battery charger (there is NO overvoltage relay in the '84-'85
190Ds) it took out the electrolytic capacitors in the clock circuit and
the clock stopped dead (until I replaced the two 100 mfd caps).
Marshall
--
Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
"der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)
