On Sun, 6 Aug 2006, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote: > I guess Im going to have to start resoldering these things.
Don't forget to re-coat the things with confromal coating when you are done; those old boards are phenolic (at best) which is slightly hygroscopic. In another 20 yrs or so it might become a serious issue on those boards :) (Seriously, when I redid one, I used paint stripper on the back, replaced all the electrolytic and tantalum caps, then desoldered (with a soldapult) every joint and then resoldered with new solder (I prefer 63/37 myself). I then did a flux wash (techspray HFE flux remover) and a test. When it was found to be working, I coated it with techspray Fine-L-Kote UR. It worked great until the car was totaled about 8 mos ago. -j. I dug around and found that I ordered: 1 P2039-ND 15UFD 16VDC TANTALUM CAP 1.14000 1.14 1 P2077-ND 4.7UFD @ 50VDC TANTALUM CAP 3.05000 3.05 2 4240PHCT-ND CAP 63V 10UF ELECT AXIAL .85000 1.70 2 4252PHCT-ND CAP 100V 2.2UF ELECT AXIAL .83000 1.66 1 P5568-ND CAP 22UF 50V ELECT NHG RADIAL .28000 .28 .. This was a CC amp that four axial leaded electrolytics on it and some radials or "box" tants. FWIW, the Tants are all discontinued.
