Hi JimC,
Hope you're out there ;-) I've pulled the intake and removed the GPs -
tested them by attaching each in turn to a Batt chgr and all glowed red hot
at the tip within ~12 sec. from the chart in the book that's pretty good -
of course, they're all only about 4 weeks old.
I wrote:<< preglow light goes out within 1 sec. of turning the key)
You replied --> That sounds like a problem internal to the GP relay. >>
Ok, the relay was replaced 4 weeks ago also after it failed to light up the
GPs one night when my wife wanted to come home. A new replay gets the GPs
to light but the light goes out within 1 sec (about 1/5 sec) and it feels
like only 4 GPs are preglowing.
So, does this sound like enough testing to convince MB to replace the relay?
I hate to buy another one (from Rusty this time) but if I have to so I'm
sure it'll start and run properly I will.
I tested the wiring between the relay and each GP - all have .4 ohms
resistamce - don't know what else to test.
What do you think? Should I just button things up?
Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS! youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Cathey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2006 11:33 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] GP Infant Mortality
Got my 2 new GPs today so tomorow I'll try to find out what the
problem is.
To refresh memory - I have new GPs and new GP relay - preglow light
goes out
within 1 sec. of turning the key)
That sounds like a problem internal to the GP relay. These things are
likely NOS, not new-new, and the timing capacitor could have aged to
death before you ever got it.
I got my DMM out and set it to
Resistance - using a new GP I touched the threads at the top and the
threads
that contact the cylinder head - got a reading of .3 - then I crossed
the
leads and the reading was .0 - is it OK that my DMM doesn't have a
reading
greater than .0?
Yes, you just cross the leads to find out what its idea of zero is, and
then subtract that from your reading.
How do I tell if my DMM will measure current in the range you
mentioned --
Was it exceedingly expensive? Then maybe. It's usually clearly written
on the face somewhere, if it does current at all.
I'm thinking I need at least a 30A max? But I think my DMM is good for
0A's - it's from Radio Shack --
Most DMM's have a 10A current scale, if they have anything at all.
To measure more requires a shunt, rarely seen these days, or a
relatively expensive clamp-on DC ammeter probe. Even my $300 Fluke
only goes to 10A without the 400A external probe (another $200 IIRC).
Attempts to measure more than 10A results in blowing its internal
fuse, an item that costs more than an entire DMM from Harbor Freight.
An old-fashioned charging gauge from the auto parts store could work,
those are usually 60A over a half-scale, so are a bit too crude to get
a good measurement off of. It would have detected my one bad one that
had 2x normal current, however.
-- Jim
_______________________________________
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
--
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.409 / Virus Database: 268.13.23/513 - Release Date: 11/2/2006
