Hello Hans.
This is going to be one of those cases of "while I'm in there" so you do
things that make sense when spending the money to fix the primary problem.
You'll need to check the oil pump - replace as needed, timing chain and
guides, tc tensioner, etc, Basically you should decide how long you want to
keep that car and wheter to make it close to what MB produced.
You should find a good machine shop who hopefully has some experience on MB
diesels. He;'s clean the block (if there's damage you want all broken
pieces found & removed) , weigh the rods, replace rod small end bushings,
check the main bore alignment, check the crank, balance the crank & other
rotating components, etc, etc,
But if you can do a lot of the work it'll cut costs and you'll *know* how it
went together. I went thru my 240D back in 1995 and spend $1800 in parts
and machine shop work. My engine was like new when done. I replaced the
pistons, cylinder liners, rings, water & oil pump, TC and components, etc.
Good luck -
Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS! youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hans Neureiter" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 8:34 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OM 617 badly sick (was 126 pre chambers)
Kaleb is on to something.
As I stated earlier, it did get very low on oil (4 quarts).
I guess the next thing to do is pull the oil pump pan and hope to see
# 1 and 2 rods.
I figured a basic rebuild (valves/guides, timing gears and chain, main
and rod bearings, piston rings, gaskets and neccessary
prechamber/injector resealing) runs ~ $ 800 in parts. If there is a
bad piston or rod, that is costly.
What is a lively, low milage (<150k) OM 617.95x worth?
Kaleb, do you have one?
On 3/14/07, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
What happened is that it got a little low on oil and nicked the #1 crank
bearing etc. When they are run low but not too low to flat out lock it
up it always nicks #1 and you get a bad knock, or rather, mild to really
bad depending on how low it went.
Hans Neureiter wrote:
> Today I went to do some more investigating:
> Excessive blow-by is not evident. The turbo is slightly oily, but the
> shaft is moving a little in radial direction.
> The motor started right up. A huge, scary clunk at first that turned
> into a steady, loud hammering. Oil pressure first pegged and went to
> 2.5 bar at a steady 800 RPM idle.
> When operating temp reached 85 C (after ~ 5 min.) pressure dropped to
> slightly above 1 with a few short excursions to below 1 bar.
> Loosening the injector lines resulted in a noticeable reduction of
> knock intensity but was equal for each cylinder.
> Using a stethoscope, the highest intensity of the knock is apparent
> near the front crank seal and at the Vac.pump housing.
> Lots of blue smoke at first that never really cleared.
> Motor ran for at least 20 minutes until turned off.
> Questions:
> Can injectors/prechambers be ruled out as major cause?
> Does oil pressure behavior indicate crank bearing failure?
> Does most noise coming from front crank seal indicate balancer failure?
> Do I have a conglomeration of failing parts (Turbo seal = blue smoke,
> etc.)
> My conclusion so far: 90% bottom end problem. But what?
>
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
(2x) 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL,
87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.okiebenz.com
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--
Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX
'82 300SD, '95 E300D
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