I can't find any resistors inline with the battery feed to the 
coil.  The coil has 12.53 volts on the + terminal with the engine off 
and just over 13.5 with the engine running.  The  coil - terminal has 
about 12.5 with the engine running, so it looks like about 1 volt of 
voltage drop across the coil.  I'd say these are normal for a coil 
with no outside resistors.  Wed, the car died while she was driving 
it.  I was in IN, so I could not check it.  After it sat a while, it 
started again.

She brought it over last night, and shut it off in the driveway, but 
of course every time i had her try to start it, it fired right up.  I 
can;t get the problem to occur when I am around.

I did the wiggle test to the wiring while the car was running, and 
nothing changed.  The wiring I can see appears to be ok.

The coil went bad a couple of years ago.  This was a new Bosch coil 
from Rusty.  I doubt the coil is going bad, although it is a 
possibility.  As they move manufacturing to 3rd world countries, 
quality is an issue.  my Behr A/C Receiver drier was made in china.

Any ideas?   This only happens when the car is warmed up 
thoroughly.  Shut it off, and then it won't start until it cools of 
for an hour or so.  Then it will start right up.  THe exception was 
when it died when running, then would not restart until it cooled down.

Am I looking at the wrong system?  Is there some sensor failure that 
could be preventing fuel delivery.  I am assuming compression and air 
intake are not variables, so that leaves spark and fuel.  THe off-on 
characteristic says electricity is the problem, but it is it spark 
related or fuel related?  I keep waiting until it happens when I can 
check the electrics in the non-running situation.

Loren

At 03:03 PM 6/29/2007, you wrote:
>Thanks Don.
>
>It is an intermittent thing.  When I got there, I put a voltmeter on
>the Coil + and it had juice.  I cranked it and the meter showed juice
>and it started up.  I tried running it a while to duplicate the
>conditions, but I could not get the problem to appear.  I don't
>remember the resistors on the fender on this car, but I will look
>again.  That was usually one of the first things I checked, back when
>i had gassers (60s vintage).
>
>At 01:37 PM 6/29/2007, you wrote:
> >If it's like my '78 - there are two resisters in-line to the coil -
> >one for running, the other (lower value) for starting. Check them for
> >continuity/value. They are on the left inner front fender - ceramic
> >rectangles. Also check/clean the connections.
> >
> >On 6/29/07, Loren Faeth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > > 85 380SL:
> > >
> > > My daughter says that when she tries to start the car, it will crank,
> > > but won't fire.  As she lets off the starter, it tries to fire.  I
> > > told her to try taking the key clear out between tries.  It has not
> > > worked yet.  This happened once before, and the problem went away
> > > without any action.  I am thinking it sounds like a problem in the
> > > ignition contacts in the switch, since it seems to work as the
> > key is let up.
> > >
> > > As I remember, there are start contacts and run contacts inside the
> > > switch that both feed the ignition circuit.
> > >
> > > Any ideas?  It is pretty unusual to have the switch fail, so It seems
> > > likely there is another cause.
> > >
> > > Loren Faeth
> >
> >--
> >OK Don, KD5NRO
> >Norman, OK
> >"If Tyranny and Oppression come to this land, it will be in the guise
> >of fighting a foreign enemy."
> >-James Madison
> >'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager
> >
> >_______________________________________
> >http://www.okiebenz.com
> >For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> >For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> >To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>
>Loren Faeth
>
>
>_______________________________________
>http://www.okiebenz.com
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>
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Loren Faeth 


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