Never saw a "Manufacture's Recommendation"  on this.  Can you quote
source?  
Of course a dealer will change warm, he moves the cold car off the lot
into his shop and drains it.  Would you really pay a dealer to get the
car hot at $75/hr.?  I think not.

Pete  

On Mon, 26 Nov 2007 07:04:42 +1030, you wrote:

>The theory behind the hot drain is that all the little particles of 
>nastiness are suspended in the oil and most get flushed out, whereas the 
>cold method has a drawback in which the particles settle on the bottom 
>of the pan and in other places around the engine.
>I'll stick with the manufacturer recommended way of doing things, which 
>is a hot drain.
>
>Hendrik
>
>Peter T. Arnold wrote:
>> For about 40 years now I've been draining my oil cold, after car sits
>> overnight..  My theory is that all of the oil went to the pan after
>> last hot shut-down.
>> I pull the plug, go in the house and demand breakfast from my Kitchen
>> Wench.
>> After 1 hour I go out, the dripping has stopped, I replace plug,
>> chance the cold filter (No burns here), refill with proper weight and
>> I'm off to the races.
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>> Pete Arnold
>>   
>>
>>   
>
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--

Regards,

Peter T. Arnold

2007 HHR, 2.4L/Auto, LT2, 19Kmi, No problems!
1987 300SDL  286 KMI  Relocated to Cleveland, home of R&R
1995 F-250 PowerChoke  199Kmi
1954 Metropolitan Convertible, Hanger Queen
Wife has a Cruizer, 87 Kmi, as reliable as an Ice Box, the car that is!

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