>  You must have lifted your foot -- the engine will race otherwise.  If
>  you were coasting, it might have dropped, but with the CC it should
>  have raced the engine.
>
>  The speedometer dropping to zero might indicate that  the drive gear
>  failed, but it should keep reading if the driveline is turning as the
>  car rolled, unless you sheared a flex disk or snapped a pinion gear.
>
>  You need to examine the driveline for damage, and check to make sure
>  the bolts that hold the torque convertor to the flywheel are intact
>  (although they usually make a racket when they break off). Check the
>  shifter bushings and link to make sure it didn't fall off (it
>  happens) leaving the shift lever unconnected to the transmission.
>
>  Otherwise, the most likely thing is a sheared pump drive. No pump, no
>  pressure, no pressure no clutch engagement, it's in neutral and will
>  stay there.
>
>  Peter

Peter-

I was thinking along the same lines.  But this car has a second pump
at the rear, so there would still be pressure to operate the
transmission although if the torque converter bolt went theres no
power to transmit from the engine.

When it went wonky did the speedo go to zero immediately or as you
slowed to a stop?

IF the converter bolts went it should be easy to see, but you need the
car up in the air to find out- with the car up and the engine running,
the converter would be stationary when viewed from underneath through
the same cutout you drain the converter from.  When at idle is it at
regular idle speed or does it seem slower than usual?  Does running
the AC really lug it?  If not, then the OVP is fine (I'm pretty sure
you lose the tach w/o the OPV).

Other than that, I can't connect these dots!  In any case you'll need
to get underneath; would also be good to check for operating and
modulator pressures.  Another thing (grasping at straws) is perhaps
the filter is plugged and theres no fluid being drawn?

Tony Wirtel

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