Thats how I do it. Put it up and shake it. Of course, having all 4
stands on solid level concrete surface is critical to safe use.
As a failsafe, put ramps under the tires...
Ken
On Mon, Jul 12, 2010 at 10:45 AM, Mark Cookson <[email protected]
<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
After I put the Miata on jackstands I grab the rollbar and shake
it for all I'm worth. I figure if it doesn't come off at that
point, it's not going to come off even if I'm under it with a big
wrench or an earthquake hits (well a 5.0 or less at least).
It's never fallen off the stands with this shaking and only once
did it move more than I wanted it to, causing me to rearrange
where the stands were placed. Normally it's like trying to move a
2000lb brick -- nothing happens.
Mark
On Mon, Jul 12, 2010 at 7:13 AM, Ken Bogart <[email protected]
<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
You need to learn to trust your jackstands.... I have cars on
them everyday in my garage.
Another good alternative are Rhino Ramps. However, they really
don't get the car high enough for the starter.
Cinderblocks are NOT good jackstands.
Ken Bogart
On Mon, Jul 12, 2010 at 9:10 AM, Chuck
<[email protected]
<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
Update:
a little gentle persuasion with a big wrench and some MMO
in the cylinders has done the trick. The engine spins
freely now. It wasn't stuck very bad - the real problem
seems to be the starter. I'm assuming it's rusted in
place, because the drive gear doesn't seem to budge when
you hit the key. I don't have it out of the car yet, so
I'm going by how it sounds. A few whacks with a hammer
didn't make any difference. Tonight I'll take it out and
see what I can do with it... or replace it.
BTW - I hate crawling under a car on jack stands... wish
there was another way to get those $%^#$% starter bolts
out. My neighbor was crushed to death under his truck
about 2 months ago, so I'm very wary of getting under
2000# of steel. I'm going to stack up some cinder blocks
under the chassis "just in case", but I still hate
crawling under there. Anybody want to come to Indiana and
do this for me? ;)
-Chuck
[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]> wrote:
Okay, you had no big wrench, but you couldn't get, what,
the CRANK pulley to turn? How did you try to turn the
engine by hand? What did you do? This is important.
In a message dated 7/10/2010 6:37:36 P.M. Eastern
Daylight Time, [email protected]
<mailto:[email protected]> writes:
Hey guys,
After almost 3 years off the road, I'm finally trying
to get my 97 FM2 running again. I took it apart to
replace the wiring harness and ended up doing
suspension, cooling system and brakes too. I'm
getting close to having it back together, and went to
start it today... and got nothing. I haven't done a
lot of trouble shooting yet, and thought I'd come
here for ideas first.
The Link boots up and I get all the dashboard
lights. Fuel pump runs.
When I turn the key to start, the engine will not
spin, the tach goes to 2500 and there's a buzzing
under the hood that sounds like a jammed electric
motor. I do not hear anything like a starter
engaging.... just the buzzing. Then the Link screen
goes to all black bars and appears to reboot. The
battery has a decent charge, and I've also tried with
a charger hooked up for extra boost.
So... I pulled the plugs and #3 was really rusty,
with a rust spot on top of the piston. I have no
idea what leaked... but something did. I didn't have
my big wrench handy, but with the plugs out I could
not get the engine to turn by hand.
Considering the car has been in pieces for so long,
it makes trouble shooting a little harder. Any ideas
on what I should be looking at first? If the engine
is seized up, what's the best way to break it loose?
I double checked the wiring harness compatibility
when I swapped it 2 years ago, so everything should
be good there, but I'm not certain that it's not part
of the problem.
thanks!
-Chuck
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