Bill - I bettered the half hour - I got my base timing back to spec in 10 mins. All I had to do was re-torque the crank bolt.... Guess I'll be re-visiting the Loctite fix on the crank key way... Anyone heard of much success getting the wear on the key way welded? Is the heat likely to damage bearings, sump, crank etc.? Glenn
_____ From: Bill Cardell [mailto:[email protected]] Sent: 11 March 2012 23:30 To: Glenn Johnson; [email protected] Subject: RE: Water Pump, Timing Belt, and Coils You are using the +10 ign setup mode, right? If only you'd had a Ninja tool.... You can pull the VC and top plastic cover, reach in with open end 14mm to loosen tensioner pulley. Use the regular TDC marks on the front pulley (damper) timed to the plastic cover, no need to see the notch on the crank sprocket. Shouldn't take half an hour. Bill Cardell Owner Flyin' Miata 1-800-359-6957 (sales) 970-464-5600 (tech support) www.flyinmiata.com www.fmwestfield.com _____ From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Glenn Johnson Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2012 5:23 PM To: [email protected] Subject: Water Pump, Timing Belt, and Coils Hi folks, I need a quick bit of collective analysis: I just changed the water pump on my '97 FMII with Link, thought I'd been meticulous with the timing belt part but the base timing now looks like it's advanced 14 degrees - white dot indicating 14 degrees, yellow to the left of it off the scale. I'm guessing it's not just that it cam timing was wrong before and I've just corrected re-fitting the timing belt, as if try to adjust the base timing back to indicating correctly the car will stall before I've got there. Assuming the worst, how little of a strip down can I get away with to set the cam timing again? Can you get the covers off with the accessory belts and water pump and crank pulleys in place, and see the crank shaft mark? Finally, trying to work out a misfire under boost that's not been affected by changing leads or plugs and re-gapping to 0.8 mm. I've had a coil pack go before and it was immediate and complete, i.e. straight to firing on two cylinders. Here the car is fine off boost and even up to 12 PSI or so. Do coils have failure modes like this? Would I be able to determine from a data log whether the misfire was an ignition or a fuelling issue? Thanks in advance, Glenn
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