Hi folks, Hey - I've just got 30 lb/ft and 40 hp from one hour of tuning - see attached! I've just been able to add 12 degrees of timing across all boost zones on my Link without a hint of knock, even the background noise from the knock sensor is half what it normally is. The car is more powerful now at 120k miles than it has been for 7 or 8 years - it's definitely putting a smile on my face right now! I've recently replaced the water pump and so re-done the timing belt, but before I do a partial strip-down and re-check the cam timing, I'm looking for some collective thoughts: * I checked TDC on no. 1 cylinder against timing marks on crank pulley and they are in sync * When I put the Link in +10 deg baseline mode, timing light is correctly showing +10 deg. * The timing values in 500 and 600 zones are now up to 15 degrees higher than the FM turbo defaults Does this sound like the intake cam is off by one tooth, assuming the exhaust isn't based on the above? Would that allow me to add 12 degrees of timing? I'm confused, but clearly happy the car's got it's mojo back. I only stopped adding timing when I had to call it a night - there's still no hint of knock so I guess there's more power in there. The power comes on later at 4k but stays stronger up to 7k - does this suggest at intake cam again? BTW I cleared the stumble under boost by cleaning the coil wells with a dremel brush... Thanks, Glenn
_____ From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Glenn Johnson Sent: 18 March 2012 12:25 To: 'Bill Cardell'; [email protected] Subject: RE: Water Pump, Timing Belt, and Coils Bill - I bettered the half hour - I got my base timing back to spec in 10 mins. All I had to do was re-torque the crank bolt.... Guess I'll be re-visiting the Loctite fix on the crank key way... Anyone heard of much success getting the wear on the key way welded? Is the heat likely to damage bearings, sump, crank etc.? Glenn _____ From: Bill Cardell [mailto:[email protected]] Sent: 11 March 2012 23:30 To: Glenn Johnson; [email protected] Subject: RE: Water Pump, Timing Belt, and Coils You are using the +10 ign setup mode, right? If only you'd had a Ninja tool.... You can pull the VC and top plastic cover, reach in with open end 14mm to loosen tensioner pulley. Use the regular TDC marks on the front pulley (damper) timed to the plastic cover, no need to see the notch on the crank sprocket. Shouldn't take half an hour. Bill Cardell Owner Flyin' Miata 1-800-359-6957 (sales) 970-464-5600 (tech support) www.flyinmiata.com www.fmwestfield.com _____ From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Glenn Johnson Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2012 5:23 PM To: [email protected] Subject: Water Pump, Timing Belt, and Coils Hi folks, I need a quick bit of collective analysis: I just changed the water pump on my '97 FMII with Link, thought I'd been meticulous with the timing belt part but the base timing now looks like it's advanced 14 degrees - white dot indicating 14 degrees, yellow to the left of it off the scale. I'm guessing it's not just that it cam timing was wrong before and I've just corrected re-fitting the timing belt, as if try to adjust the base timing back to indicating correctly the car will stall before I've got there. Assuming the worst, how little of a strip down can I get away with to set the cam timing again? Can you get the covers off with the accessory belts and water pump and crank pulleys in place, and see the crank shaft mark? Finally, trying to work out a misfire under boost that's not been affected by changing leads or plugs and re-gapping to 0.8 mm. I've had a coil pack go before and it was immediate and complete, i.e. straight to firing on two cylinders. Here the car is fine off boost and even up to 12 PSI or so. Do coils have failure modes like this? Would I be able to determine from a data log whether the misfire was an ignition or a fuelling issue? Thanks in advance, Glenn
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