What you can do is to have a machinist type drill holes around the
crank/pulley interface and insert dowels in those holes to hold it in place
temporarily. It's way cheaper than a new crank. Can you even replace the
crank with the motor in the car on a 16v?.
On my Audi, they were able to just tighten the pulley back on really
well
and it held long enough to sell the car. ;) Unfortunately, on a 16v, if
the crank slips a lot, you'll be buying a new head. On the Audi, it wasn't
such a big deal.
Sorry to hear that I was right about your car, Tomas. :( How's that
new
pulley working out? Was the keyway stripped?
At 09:00 PM 6/29/01 EDT, [email protected] wrote:
>Sorry to hear that, I found out a week ago that I had the same problem but
>only the key on the pulley was all broken (actually Patrick told me that
>about 4 months ago and I just realized he was right). That made the car
very
>sluggish when taking off, a PITA to drive, it also made it look like the
>other pulleys attached to it were warped. I really doubt that JB weld will
>hold the pulley too long, and the problem is that if it slips off the crank
>you'll do serious damage to the engine, maybe somebody on the list has a
>better idea. I got the pulley from an aftermarket place down here in
Florida
>for about $25. All I can tell you is that a new crank is expensive, I'd say
>this is the perfect excuse to buy a 2.0l shortblock. Sorry I couldn't help,
>
>Tomas Günther
>'87 GTI 16v
**************
Patrick Austin
[email protected]
(617)782-9115
**************
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