Do you have an underdrive pulley set? It might be worth trying to
"push" the coolant pump a bit more. If the crank pulley is smaller than
stock, try a return to full size (opposite at pump: if it's oversized,
go down a size or two so that it has to go around more times for a given
belt length passing by). I've seen a water pump that had a shrink-fit
aluminum impeller on a steel shaft; when hot, it slipped. No idea
whether it did it from new, though, and that was an older car. Another
thought: try running a fully normal thermostat once, letting it act as a
constriction that slows flow, giving more dwell time in the radiator.
Are all of your shields and airflow control pieces in place around the
radiator? Air that bypasses doesn't cool.
Matthew Yip wrote:
I've been fighting this issue for an eternity - with all new hardware and a
gutted thermostat, my car runs HOT during a race - right at the hot-line on the
OE gauge with oil temps around 250-260. My former crew and now fellow
competitor doesn't have this problem and most everyone else with a VW (albeit 8v
cars) doesn't have any issue.
As noted, all the components are new and the t-stat is gutted so, in theory, I'm
absolutely befuddled. The radiator is a 16v rad for an a/c car so,
theoretically, it's the largest 16v radiator available.
One comment from a buddy who races and tunes Hondas is that the timing is too
aggressive and it's building too much heat. I wonder if it could be that the
car is running too lean, creating too much heat.
Any suggestions on a more efficient radiator?
Ugh...Matthew
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