I've never done a trans other than on jack stands - it's not that difficult to 
do although it helps to have someone strong and virile working the bottom 
tasks.  


Hold the engine with your cherry picker (engine crane).  If you have an upper 
stress bar, remove it to prep for the trans swap and then reinstall it before 
you do the dirty deed.  Use a small strap (1" ratchet strap for ATVs or even a 
bungee cord works fine) and hook it anywhere on the trans and pass the strap 
over the stress car before bringing the strap to the front of the engine bay.  
With a body underneath the car, remove the trans - a person on-top can control 
the trans (and it's rate of decent towards your soft body bits) using the small 
"top strap".  The strap method works well when installing the trans as well 
since the person working the bottom doesn't have to rest the trans on their 
chest before bench pressing it into the car.  




>________________________________
>From: Chad Rebuck <[email protected]>
>To: a2-16v <[email protected]>
>Sent: Monday, October 10, 2011 10:37 AM
>Subject: [a2-16v-list] transmission swap
>
>I replaced the head gasket with a fiber type gasket last week and now
>the coolant leak is gone.  It turned out that the machine work to
>surface the block and head were too rough for the aba metal layer
>gasket to seal.
>
>Now that I've driven the car a couple days I realize the transmission
>output flange seals are leaking pretty good.  I have another
>transmission to swap in, but I wondered how much of a job this is
>without a lift.  Can the trans be replaced easily up on jack stands?
>I already know I'll need someone to help hold the trans to
>remove/install.  Perhaps I could use my engine lift to support the
>trans?
>
>Any experience or recommendations to share?
>
>Thanks
>Chad
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>
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