One of those banjo bolts is a check valve.

On Mar 4, 2016, at 6:38 PM, Holland Phillips <hollandphill...@gmail.com> wrote:

McMaster has metric flange nuts, but the banjo bolts are going to be dealer 
only. McMaster does carry banjo bolts, but only in sae. I'm sure the sleeve 
will also be dealer only, unless you want to buy the proper size metric steel 
tubing and cut to fit. McMaster will have metric tubing.

~Holland

> On Mar 4, 2016 15:16, "Larry Velez" <la...@sinu.com> wrote:
> Went to Fastenal this morning (7:30am open time works well for me) 
> 
> Picked up 4 of the 9 metal pieces on this thing.  All in stainless. 
> 
> Now just missing the banjo bolts, metal sleeves and a flange nut I am 
> surprised they didn't have.   True Value is my next stop and maybe McMaster.  
> Might as well put all new hardware on this thing at this point. 
> 
> I'll summarize what size it all is so someone in the future can order all 
> this stuff more easily. 
> 
> 
> -------- Original message --------
> From: Larry Velez
> Date:02/29/2016 12:44 PM (GMT-05:00)
> To: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
> Subject: RE: [mk2-16v] Rust Resistance on Restored Fasteners and Metal? (Main 
> Fuel Pump Assembly)
> 
> Thanks for the tips Jack.   I was thinking of using Por15 on the bracket 
> (Por15 seems to have a lot of fans) but I will also look at Rustoleum 
> Hammered.
> 
>  
> 
> I’ll check my local True Value for their fastener selection.     These guys 
> also seem to have retail stores but I have never been to one:  
> https://www.fastenal.com/
> 
>  
> 
> I’ll see what I can find there,  and if not I’ll use Holland’s trick to paint 
> the tops of the fasteners and coat the threads with LocTite Blue.
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks,
> 
>  
> 
> -Larry
> 
>  
> 
> From: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of 
> Jack Simon
> Sent: Monday, February 29, 2016 12:12 PM
> To: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
> Subject: Re: [mk2-16v] Rust Resistance on Restored Fasteners and Metal? (Main 
> Fuel Pump Assembly)
> 
>  
> 
> WD40 evaporates quickly but for temporary protection it would suit although 
> I'd use P'Blaster as it leaves a film that does not go away and actually 
> lubricates.  That's why it does such a nice job in protecting electrical 
> connections.  
> 
>  
> 
> Rustoleum Hammered would be my choice for the final paint, especially since 
> you already have it primered.  That stuff is a take-off of an old British 
> product called Hammerite that was sold here in the U.S. until VOC regulations 
> got it banned.  It is, however, back and Sherwin-Williams stores now carry 
> it.  
> 
>  
> 
> As far as replacement hardware goes, I've always used new Stainless nuts, 
> bolts, washers, etc. along with LocTite Blue (Medium strength) so that 
> disassembling them at some point in the future will be relatively easy.  
> Using LocTite RED usually requires a blowtorch and an Act of God to get them 
> loosened!!  Most local hardware stores that carry Hillman or Midwest 
> Fasteners products should be a good source.  After I retired I spent 10 years 
> working for a local True Value and their selection was all Midwest Fasteners 
> and rarely was I forced to go elsewhere.  Their "Nuts & Bolts" area consisted 
> of two 40 foot aisles lined on both sides with everything imaginable.  
> 
>  
> 
> Good luck.......Jack
> 
>  
> 
> On 29 Feb 2016, at 11:25, Larry Velez wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any tips on how to move forward from this point would be welcome.   I will 
> spray the bracket with rustoleum now that it is primered and I sprayed the 
> fasteners with WD40 for now, but I’m thinking I need something more permanent 
> before it all goes back under the car.
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
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