Hi Cherri,
I can't help with changing out the centerboard pennant. That is
something I haven't done, and from the look of mine, don't anticipate
doing it for years to come.
My first question: Is the pennant really frayed and needing replacement,
or is this just a "let's do it and start from square 1 knowing it is OK"?
The M Archives have a lot of correspondence about removing the
centerboard, so if you really want to change the pennant, you will
probably have to drop the centerboard first; then install the new pennant
and then replace the board in it's slot.
First piece of advice re: centerboards: The pennant has to have a knot
in it so that the board can't go to it's lowest position. The reason
being, the weight of the board and the lever-arm at the centerboard pin
could cause damage if the board is allowed to drop all the way without
putting in the knot as a stop.
The easiest way to find the right place for the knot is to very gently
lower the board (with the boat in the water) to find out how far down it
goes. Now pull it up about 2 inches: that is where you want the knot to
stop the descent of the board.
The knot now takes the loading of the weight of the board, not the board
mounting pin.
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Rigging the boat is simple. You have a forestay, and two shrouds. These
three hold the mast in position.
I use the aft holes in the chain plates in order to get a bit of mast
rake aft - which Jerry recommends for better upwind performance.
Getting the forestay in place, if you have the original pin in the "U"
channel is a chore. After doing this once or twice I hollered for help
and was advised to get a "Quick Release Shroud Lever" WEST Catalog page
486 Item No. 24175. This shroud release lever allows you to put a quick
release pin - Avibank Ball-Lok Quick-Release Pin WEST Catalog page 197
(sorry I can't give you the length I used, you'll have to measure it) in
the bow fitting. This attaches the forestay to the bow fitting.
Then you can flip the lever on the Quick Release Shroud Lever and tension
the forestay. The unit comes with a ball pin that you then put in place,
and your rig is up and reay for action.
While raising the mast, I use the jib halyard to help raise the mast and
to hold it in position while I fasten the Quick Release Shroud Lever.
--------
I put a small Harken block at the mast head and run a thin line to the
boom to act as a topping lift. The topping lift is cleated off near the
boom on the mast (Stbd side).
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I don't know what kind of a mast support you have at the stern of the
boat. On mine, the original stainless steel tube had been shortened.
This meant that I couldn't get the mast to clear the edge of the
companionway hatch while getting the mast end into the cheeks and
inserting the bolt to hold the mast in place.
I had to build a support extension, which then gave me the right angle so
that the foot of the mast was properly in the mast cheeks and I could put
in the bolt.
Give it a dry run at home to make sure how it works - and if it works!
Connie
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