Connie,
   Thanks for all the good advice. I don't know if the pennant is frayed -
Joe just mentioned that it hadn't been changed for years and that it might
be a good idea to change it. I have a friend who is good at working on boats
and will ask him to check it . He is going to paint the bottom for me and
check it over carefully, so I will pass on your advice.
   Cherri
----------
>From: Conbert H Benneck <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Subject: Re: M_Boats: new boat
>Date: Mon, Mar 18, 2002, 10:01 AM
>

>Hi Cherri,
>
>I can't help with changing out the centerboard pennant.  That is
>something I haven't done, and from the look of mine, don't anticipate
>doing it for years to come.
>
>My first question:  Is the pennant really frayed and needing replacement,
>or is this just a "let's do it and start from square 1 knowing it is OK"?
>
>The M Archives have a lot of correspondence about removing the
>centerboard, so if you really want to change the pennant, you will
>probably have to drop the centerboard first; then install the new pennant
>and then replace the board in it's slot.
>
>First piece of advice re: centerboards:  The pennant has to have a knot
>in it so that the board can't go to it's lowest position.  The reason
>being, the weight of the board and the lever-arm at the centerboard pin
>could cause damage if the board is allowed to drop all the way without
>putting in the knot as a stop.
>
>The easiest way to find the right place for the knot is to very gently
>lower the board (with the boat in the water) to find out how far down it
>goes.  Now pull it up about 2 inches:  that is where you want the knot to
>stop the descent of the board.  
>
>The knot now takes the loading of the weight of the board, not the board
>mounting pin.
>
>     -------------
>
>Rigging the boat is simple.  You have a forestay, and two shrouds.  These
>three hold the mast in position.
>
>I use the aft holes in the chain plates in order to get a bit of mast
>rake aft - which Jerry recommends for better upwind performance.
>
>Getting the forestay in place, if you have the original pin in the "U"
>channel is a chore.  After doing this once or twice I hollered for help
>and was advised to get a "Quick Release Shroud Lever"  WEST Catalog page
>486 Item No. 24175.  This shroud release lever allows you to put a quick
>release pin - Avibank Ball-Lok Quick-Release Pin WEST Catalog page 197 
>(sorry I can't give you the length I used, you'll have to measure it) in
>the bow fitting.  This attaches the forestay to the bow fitting.  
>
>Then you can flip the lever on the Quick Release Shroud Lever and tension
>the forestay.  The unit comes with a ball pin that you then put in place,
>and your rig is up and reay for action.
>
>While raising the mast, I use the jib halyard to help raise the mast and
>to hold it in position while I fasten the Quick Release Shroud Lever.
>
>      --------
>
>I put a small Harken block at the mast head and run a thin line to the
>boom to act as a topping lift.  The topping lift is cleated off near the
>boom on the mast (Stbd side).
>
>      -------
>
>I don't know what kind of a mast support you have at the stern of the
>boat.  On mine, the original stainless steel tube had been shortened. 
>This meant that I couldn't get the mast to clear the edge of the
>companionway hatch while getting the mast end into the cheeks and
>inserting the bolt to hold the mast in place.
>
>I had to build a support extension, which then gave me the right angle so
>that the foot of the mast was properly in the mast cheeks and I could put
>in the bolt.
>
>Give it a dry run at home to make sure how it works - and if it works!
>
>Connie
>
>
>
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