In a message dated 6/30/02 11:56:50 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
<< Well, my one of my bunk boards has compressed about , inch and I guess it is time to replace them. I looked in the archives but didn't find anything. Do you have to get the boards to twist before you mount them or do you let them take a natural set with the M15 siting on them for a few days? What is the best process for replacing the original trailrite bunk boards? What do you cover them with? Thanks Doug Kelch >> Doug, While I don't disagree with the responses from other list members, I would like to propose a possible alternative. As a builder, I have replaced and/or installed a number of decks in the last few years using the plastic/wood composite called 'Trex'. I recently had occasion to visit the first Trex deck we installed five years ago, and there is absolutely no weathering, marking, shrinkage, splintering, etc., nor have I seen any evidence of the material absorbing much, if any, water. For all purposes, the material looks virtually the same as when I installed it--and this with no maintenance, sealers, or other care. Apparently the plastic encapsulates the reclaimed wood fibers so that no maintenance is necessary. Other than the fact that it has a rather 'distinct' appearance as compared to say, redwood or cedar, the only draw backs of using this material for its intended purpose are its tendency to expand and contract more than conventional lumber (thus we use slightly larger butt joints and edge gaps), increased weight, and that it will not span as far as good lumber (which, alas, most pressure treated lumber is not). Trex does have a slight crown milled into the tops for drainage. I have yet to determine whether this is enough to warrant planing it flat or no (I suspect not, as it is pretty subtle). It is available in 2x2, 2x4, 2x6 and larger widths (with a 2x4 netting out at approx. 1-1/2"x3-1/2 inches). Please note that Trex is very different from other plastic/wood or plastic products in that it is solid. Some competing products are hollow and/or incorporate ribbing, and as such, probably would not be suitable for the bending. Anyway, I have been threatening to galvanize my Trail-Rite trailer since I got it, and I now that I actually have some time (that is to say, fewer building projects right now due to the economy), I think I will forge ahead and try using Trex in lieu of conventional lumber when I reassemble. I actually suspect that the more flexible nature of the material will be an asset in that it will more easily conform to the hull. I intend to fasten only one end of each 'board,' set the boat on the trailer, mark the remaining holes relative to the vertical supports, and then fasten them accordingly. As for bunk covering, both West Marine and Boat U. S. sold bunk carpet the last time I checked. Use Monel or 316 stainless staples, or you will find yourself refastening often (especially in salt water). Scott Grometer, M15 #478 'bebe' _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
