MEKP is the hardner used as the catalyst for polyester and/or polyvinyl resins . Could you have meant polyvinyl alcohol? The books are full of things I don't know about these stuff, so set me straight. Thanks.
Clarence Andrews M-17 Carpe Ventum #604 ----- Original Message ----- From: "jerry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <[email protected]> Sent: Tuesday, April 19, 2005 12:42 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Gel Coat Matching > MEK Peroxide (methyl ethel keytone) is the water-soluble plastic film that > you spray over a gel-coat repair, to keep off the oxygen, which retards the > curing process. > > I better way on an older boat is to use a two-part polyurethane. Rather > than LP (linear polyurethane), an automotive type is better because you can > sand out any runs, and it stands up to UV better. You can spray it over > gel-coat (prep just like you would when using gel-coat, then wetsand out the > edges and buff. It'll be the shiniest spot on the boat, esp[ecially ten > years later. The best auto-type polyurethane is Deltron, made by PPG. You > can't get it many places now in CA because of harrassment from the air > quality people, but it IS still legal for boats and airplanes. > > Jerry > jerrymontgomery.org > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Bob Olson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" > <[email protected]> > Sent: Sunday, April 17, 2005 10:01 AM > Subject: Re: M_Boats: Gel Coat Matching > > > > Bill, From what I've been able to glean from various websites regarding > > gelcoat, is that its primarily a production process material. In other > > words, it works best when sprayed into a mold as the first layer in the > > production process before the layers of fiberglass. I have a feeling > > that it would be difficult to replicate the original gelcoat look by > > applying it over a hull repair. And, I'm guessing that it would need to > > be covered in order to cure properly. Typically, a boat shop would spray > > a water soluable material over the gelcoat as a final step. After the > > gelcoat had cured, then the top layer would be washed off. > > > > That's why I'm leaning toward a linear polyurathane (sp?) product. More > > expensive than cocaine, but it sounds as though it's the right product > > for post production repairs. > > > > How the hell do you de-core part of a rope for a centerboard pendant? > > That's the thing that got me boggled right now. > > > > --Bob > > > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > > > > >In a message dated 4/17/2005 12:08:11 AM Pacific Standard Time, > > >[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > > >West System believes that you can put gelcoat over their epoxy. > > >Bob, > > >I was about to go buy another book when I had the right one all along > (West > > >System Boat Repair & Maintenance). The book is inexpensive, around $3.00. > On > > >page 8 it refers to the steps needed to use gelcoat over epoxy. Looks > like my > > >little projects will be fine with the use of epoxy only. No need to use > > >polyester resin for the small hole repairs I've got in mind. However, > they do > > >recommend a long epoxy cure time of two weeks prior to putting on the > gelcoat finish. > > >Bill > > >"Tipperary" > > >_______________________________________________ > > >http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
