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Dario,
Thanks. I think I get it now. The Holytex serves as a temporary backing
while the poster dries out and the wrinkles go away, then it is removed. I'm
amazed that the layer of starch paste which stays behind on the back of the
poster can't be felt and is pliable enough for the poster to be rolled. No
danger of the starch drying out, becoming brittle over time and starting to come
off the back of the poster in small flakes? What if the back of the poster gets
exposed to some moisture, even damp air? Wouldn't the poster then stick to the
foam backing if it was in a frame with foam backing?
I'm not trying to rain on any parades, but this new technique seems to
bring up a whole bunch of new considerations. And, since the fold lines are
weakened by the wetting from the cleaning and deacidification, then
stretched and dried while stretched to remove the wrinkles... but there is no
linen glued to the back of the poster to "hold the poster together"
-- doesn't this mean the fold lines could potentially start separating at
some later date, almost "on their own?"
I am opposed to linen-backing posters that don't need it, but I'm wondering
if starch-backing isn't going to cause more problems than it solves long
term?
-- JR
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, December 23, 2005 16:19
Subject: Re: [MOPO] Wrinkle Cure? Starch Backing? Oh my!
<<<< And, another question, doesn't all this
processing put a lot of stress on the old paper fibers, resulting in a poster
with far weaker structural integrity than when you started (and no linen to
reinforce it)? >>>>
Yes, absolutely your stretching the
poster out after the bath to get the folds out. No doubt that it weakens the
folds.
Dario.
Dario Casadei wrote:
Dario Casadei wrote:
You
are doing fine, stop right there!! No you don't remove the starch. It is
such a thin layer that you don't see it or feel it and your poster is roll
able.
Holytex is polyester, your paste is vegetable based so it's made to
tack to paper. It will not tack to Holytex, however the starch will give it
that extra suction needed when drying up. And then simply peel the Holytex
off. It's nifty and I am doing 10 right now for a client.
But I still
think Linen is a better way to go for your posters, simply because it is a
101 % expectable conservation technique by all standards.
And it will
protect your poster far better than anything.
And for anything else
there's Advil.
Cheers my friend,
Dario.
JR wrote:
This new "starch backing" concept is making my head hurt.
Can someone please explain to me... in simple terms... how exactly
how this works and permanently removes wrinkles? As I think I understand
it, you clean and de-acidify the poster in a bath, then instead of pasting
it onto linen to take out the wrinkles, you put a layer of starch (paste)
on the back of the cleaned poster while it is still wet from the bath
and then stretch it (gently, I presume...) That way it dries without
wrinkles and no backing. OK, fine. But then what? Don't you have to remove
the layer of starch from the back? If you don't, won't the poster be stiff
and break like a cracker? But if you remove the starch (with water,
right?), then how do you prevent wrinkles from being reintroduced by the
removal process? Doesn't applying enough water to remove the starch cause
the paper to wrinkle again?
And, another question, doesn't all this processing put a lot of
stress on the old paper fibers, resulting in a poster with far weaker
structural integrity than when you started (and no linen to reinforce
it)?
-- JR
-----
Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, December 23, 2005 14:27
Subject: Re: [MOPO] Wrinkle Cure?
Hi Alfredo,
Starch backing would be a great choice if
you poster only need cleaning
and you wish to leave the linen
out.
As you can see you have already gotten some good suggestions what
to use
Like oil of Uley and so on. So I'd like to add to that, make
sure that
you get an archival cooked paste from scratch either Rice or
Wheat
starch and not Shure stick 800 wall paper glue, It's sold by the
gallon,
cheap, quick and easy to work with, but it tack poorly and it
molds
over. It contains fungicide and other chemicals that has not been
test
properly on vintage paper, so long term effects are not know. I
did and
open air study, I wanted to know what all the back door fuzz
was all
about. I cooked my usual paste, and made a batch of Archival
Methyl
cellulose by Lineco and I bought a small bucket of Shure stick.
I let
them sit in 3 independent jars for two day, no lid!! after that
I
introduced a contaminate brush to each paste. after two day there
were
mold growing in the Shure stick wall paper glue. I don't think
the
fungicide and chemicals is there to protect your wall paper, more
so to
protect the paste its self. and it's not very
impressive!!
Best Regards,
Dario.
alfred zelcer
wrote:
>Would like to know what the best treatment for a
very
>wrinkled one-sheet is without going all the way
to
>linen backing. Would an acid bath do it? Or is there
a
>treatment that works the equivalent of a pressing?
>Thanks
all, and a merry Holiday to all
too!
>
>AlfredoZ
>
>
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