On Thursday, March 21, 2013 6:10:44 PM UTC+10:30, mikegregg wrote: > > I switched to sodium/potassium persulfate a while back myself. It was a > good switch. Just make sure it's nice and warm. I typically heat mine to > 110-120f before I start etching. The higher heat makes for cleaner traces, > and a faster etch. >
I have a Kinsten etching tank - heat and aeration are courtesy of aquarium parts. But, yes, persulphates need to be warm unless you want REAL slow etching! One other note on persulphates - ammonium persulphate is very hygroscopic. I had a 2.5kg tub, which I found to be useless when I went to it the other week. Whilst the tub itself was polypropylene, the lid was made of some other plastic that had decided to crack in the Australian heat and let in the moisture. The result - a nasty slush that couldn't etch anything. I believe that the sodium/potassium salts don't have this problem, so would tend to favour them in future. Final word on that - not only do the persulphates not attack/stain everything like ferric chloride, but you can actually SEE through them whilst the etch is going on - which I consider to be a big plus. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/siYqi6DsDjAJ. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
