Sounds like cathode poisoning.

This is a very important thing that everbody using nixies must know: Just 
as running a nixie tube with too much current, is bad. Running a nixie with 
too little current flowing thru it, is also a bad thing.

There may not be enough current flowing thru the tube, to allow the "ON" 
cathode, to shake off the crud that coated it, when another cathode was ON. 
Eventually, that crud keeps the really nasty coated sections, of that 
cathode, from glowing.

A few months of running at "UNDERcurrent" (too little current) will do what 
you're seeing. I'd just change out the anode resistors, with lower values. 
If its direct drive, measure the voltage drop, and calculate the current. 
Find a datasheet for that tube, and see what the minimum current is. Assume 
the voltage drop will be the same for the replacement resistor. Use Ohms 
Law, to calculate a resistance value that will meet that minimum current. 
Pick a real resistor value that's ~20% smaller, and use that for the new 
resistors.

You can measure the supply voltage too. Maybe it was too low from the 
start, and it would have delivered the correct current, had it been at the 
proper voltage. Absolute minimum supply voltage for direct drive nixies, is 
170V. For multiplexed operation, you want a higher voltage. The higher the 
voltage, the faster, the tube turns ON. Typically, nixie tubes take between 
15 to 50uS to start conducting, after voltage is applied. 

On Thursday, September 11, 2014 9:38:51 PM UTC-7, Dman777 wrote:
>
> Well, I guess I have really bad luck. My clock is only like 3 months old. 
>
> What is weird is that this issue, for this particle tube, is random. It's 
> not specific to just some digits. Sometimes it goes away and sometimes it 
> comes back....doesn't matter which digit. 
>
> Is this the tube itself or the clock circuitry causing this?
>
>
>

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