Thanks Moses. I put a drawing to explain the "resistor and the Ammeter" cause one is serial and the other in //
I found the specs of a rheostat: https://docs.rs-online.com/736e/0900766b8142087d.pdf but I don't see the max voltage. Le samedi 22 avril 2023 à 19:50:36 UTC+2, Moses a écrit : > Benoit, > > I'll try and clarify what I can for you. > > "the voltmeter should be in place of the resistance and vice versa"... I > think you mean ammeter here? If so, the ammeter is in series, so it > shouldn't matter where it is really. If you really did mean voltmeter.. it > depends on if you want to read the power supply voltage or the voltage drop > on your nixie tube. > > For the power of your resistor: Once the nixie tube lights.. the > sustaining voltage is going to be around 140v or so on the nixie tube. > Leaving about 40v drop on your resistor. Power dissipation on your resistor > will then be.. P=VI, P=40*0.0025ma, P=0.1watts. I normal 1/4 watt resistor > should be fine. Same calculation applies if you want to put a rheostat on > your tube, a smaller one should be fine. No need for 200kg one lol > Do remember, one dropping resistor per nixie tube. Pay attention to the > voltage rating on the resistor too, most small ones are a maximum of 200v > or 250v, for the rheostat see if you can find the datasheet for this max > voltage. Yes, the sustaining voltage is a lot lower on the resistor, but I > would try and use one that is rated for your supply voltage. > > If you are using a rheostat for adjusting the tube current, put a resistor > in series as well to set your lower value. This is so you don't drive the > tube with 0 ohm resistance when you turn it all the way down. A 20k or so > should be ok. > > That yh11068a module is rated for 40 watts! That is like 10 times what you > would need for most nixie clocks! Be careful at higher voltages, a 200mA > capable supply at a few hundred volts will hurt you good. > > Regards, > -Moses > > On Saturday, April 22, 2023 at 5:30:08 AM UTC-7 Benoit Tourret wrote: > >> In order to be able to talk about the same thing, I have a few questions >> regarding my DC power supply. >> I have in order: a 0-30V / 0-10A adjustable DC power supply, a NCH6100HV >> (12-24V >> to 85-235V HV) module, a 0-300V DC voltmeter, a 0-30mA ammeter and a 32.4 >> kΩ limiting resistor mounted on the wire that goes to the tube. >> in my opinion, the voltmeter should be in place of the resistance and >> vice versa. so far, am I okay? >> >> If I replace the adjustable resistor of the HT module with a >> potentiometer on the front, I can modify the voltage. >> My current limiting resistor (a USSR model salvaged from a IN-12 nixie >> board) measures 10mm x 4mm. I have no idea of its power or the power >> needed, as I want to change the intensity, I have to replace my resistor >> with a second potentiometer. >> I thought of a potentiometer of 50 or 100k. But what power... a small >> Chinese knob or a large rehostat of 200 kilograms? >> I don't want to power much more than 5 or 6 tubes. >> Until now my DC power supply never showed anything other than 0.00 A >> >> Am I completely off the mark or is it doable? >> I also have a DC-DC yh11068a module ( >> https://dalmura.com.au/static/YH11068A.pdf >> >> Here in France, ebay is not used by companies to resell their used >> equipment. Removing an item from an inventory requires tons of paperwork. >> So, finding a power supply for an EDM machine is rather complicated. >> >> Le vendredi 21 avril 2023 à 23:41:38 UTC+2, Moses a écrit : >> >>> I've always just "unpoisoned" tubes with slightly higher current then >>> normal, not higher voltage. A couple of hours to a few days usually fixes >>> them for me. I don't think a 150-200% overdrive on the current will hurt it >>> too much for a short duration. I've seen some tubes unpoisoned right in >>> front of my eyes after just a few minutes at around double the current. >>> >>> I've used brand new tubes where some digits didn't light fully.. usually >>> after a few days of normal usage, at normal current levels, they came back. >>> I've always viewed this as normal. I figure they have been sitting unlit >>> for decades, it may take a little while to get everything lit up. >>> >>> Regards, >>> -Moses >>> >>> On Friday, April 21, 2023 at 1:19:55 PM UTC-7 Benoit Tourret wrote: >>> >>>> I don't know how to rise the intensity... >>>> I wish I had a laboratory DC power supply, but mine stops at 30V. >>>> so I put a NCH6300HV to raise the voltage. If I can adjust the >>>> voltage, I cannot adjust anything else. >>>> however I added a voltmeter and ammeter to check what I'm sending to >>>> the tube. Do you know if there is an adjustable power supply that can be >>>> used for our beloved tubes? >>>> So, I regulate the voltage and I check that I do not exceed the desired >>>> values. >>>> >>>> should I change the 32K resistor between the PS and the tube? could a >>>> potentiometer be used? >>>> >>>> So I did see an improvement. but some need to be "heated". I of course >>>> doesn't speak of temperature, but they need 10 to 20 seconds to get their >>>> full glow, a bit like a neon tube with an old starter. >>>> They are 52 years old now and never been used. >>>> >>>> Le vendredi 21 avril 2023 à 16:20:59 UTC+2, gregebert a écrit : >>>> >>>>> The IN-1 datasheet says 2.5mA typical operating current, so you should >>>>> try cleaning the other 3 tubes at just under 3mA. The other 7 tubes might >>>>> clean-up on their own at normal current if the usage is balanced. >>>>> >>>>> So did you see some improvement ? >>>>> >>>>> On Friday, April 21, 2023 at 12:14:05 AM UTC-7 Benoit Tourret wrote: >>>>> >>>>>> I ran each tube with 180V 2mA / two hours, turning each plate for 2 >>>>>> minutes. >>>>>> >>>>>> on 10 tubes: >>>>>> >>>>>> 7 are OK >>>>>> 3 are not perfect. >>>>>> >>>>>> I will wait to be able to lit them all together. >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> Le jeudi 20 avril 2023 à 01:27:40 UTC+2, gregebert a écrit : >>>>>> >>>>>>> I couldn't resist asking google Bard this question: Are IN-1 nixie >>>>>>> tubes reliable ? >>>>>>> Well, here's the answer. Feel free to laugh.....love the part about >>>>>>> the filaments. Geez, maybe that's why I had so much trouble with mine ? >>>>>>> >>>>>>> IN-1 nixie tubes are generally reliable, but they can fail over >>>>>>> time. The most common failure mode is a leak in the vacuum tube. This >>>>>>> can >>>>>>> happen due to a number of factors, including manufacturing defects, >>>>>>> physical damage, or exposure to extreme temperatures. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> If a leak develops, the tube will slowly fill with air and the >>>>>>> filaments will eventually burn out. This can happen over a period of >>>>>>> months >>>>>>> or even years. To prevent leaks, it is important to store IN-1 nixie >>>>>>> tubes >>>>>>> in a cool, dry place and to avoid dropping or banging them. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Another potential failure mode is a failure of the heater filament. >>>>>>> This can happen due to a number of factors, including overheating, >>>>>>> overvoltage, or physical damage. If the heater filament fails, the tube >>>>>>> will not light up. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> To prevent heater filament failures, it is important to use a >>>>>>> regulated power supply and to avoid exceeding the maximum operating >>>>>>> voltage. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> On Tuesday, April 18, 2023 at 2:03:54 PM UTC-7 gregebert wrote: >>>>>>> >>>>>>>> I never had an IN-1 run long enough to get poisoned. Mine developed >>>>>>>> internal shorts, resulting in 2 numerals glowing at the same time. >>>>>>>> From what I've heard, nixie degradation increases exponentially >>>>>>>> with current, so you want to stay as close as possible to normal >>>>>>>> operating >>>>>>>> current. Try running the worst digit continuously for a few hours at >>>>>>>> 20% >>>>>>>> higher current, and see if that helps. I was (briefly) drawn to the >>>>>>>> IN-1 >>>>>>>> over 10 years ago because of the large size for the low cost; I bought >>>>>>>> a >>>>>>>> case of 25 for around 40USD including shipping. Only a few survive >>>>>>>> today >>>>>>>> that weren't dissected or tortured in a microwave oven (yeah, pretty >>>>>>>> hilarious but kinda toxic because of the bakelite). >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> A few of the IN-18's in my clock have shown signs of poisoning even >>>>>>>> though I run a cleansing routine for 1 hour every night. This is >>>>>>>> most-visible on the first day of the month for the months digit, and >>>>>>>> it can >>>>>>>> take a few days to recover. This clock has 14 tubes; kinda ridiculous >>>>>>>> but >>>>>>>> it looks impressive. It was inspired by the movie "Tomorrowland", >>>>>>>> which has >>>>>>>> a brief scene with two 6-digit IN-18 clocks. I'm certain one of our >>>>>>>> neonixie members is the creator of that clock (that was an invitation >>>>>>>> for >>>>>>>> you to take a well-deserved bow...). >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Tubes that run 0-9 during the day need no cleansing (unit seconds, >>>>>>>> unit minutes, unit hours). Tubes the run 0-5 during the day are >>>>>>>> cleansed by >>>>>>>> running 6-9 (tens seconds, tens minutes). Tubes that are static, or >>>>>>>> near >>>>>>>> static (tens hours, month, day, year) run 0-9 for cleansing. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> The static tubes, notably the 4-digit year, show very little signs >>>>>>>> of poisoning because I have swapped them around to put the >>>>>>>> most-vulnerable-to-poisoning tubes where they run 0-9 during the day. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> I havn't seen any signs of poisoning on Burroughs tubes. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> On Tuesday, April 18, 2023 at 11:39:54 AM UTC-7 Benoit Tourret >>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> Hello, I have some IN-1 that seems to be poisoned. poisoned or >>>>>>>>> rather oxided, as they seems to be really new. it is fine mesh from >>>>>>>>> September 1971. >>>>>>>>> two of them are fine after one or two day, tree other doesn't show >>>>>>>>> any improvement. >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> I read that I must overload them a while but how many and how long >>>>>>>>> should I keep one digit on before light the next digit ? is it 1 >>>>>>>>> second or >>>>>>>>> one day... >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> by the way, as I read that this tube doesn't have mercury inside, >>>>>>>>> can it be unpoisonned ? >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. 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