It's whatever the manufacturer says to use. End of discussion. No more oil 
threads of I'll commit electronic suicide! HotrodMamma.
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Graham Rogers 
  To: [email protected] 
  Sent: Wednesday, March 18, 2009 11:36 AM
  Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Gasoline, octane and oil


  Okay this one is just for clarification for our 28 year old son who has a 
2006 CBR1000.  He wants to know what's the right oil for his bike.  I 
summarised the discussion here.  He's skeptical because some of his buddies 
give him such conflicting advice.  One said don't use Purple Royal ... it goes 
on.  So would someone just say again what would be the right oil for his CBR 
and say it with authority,  Graham (I will forward it on to him)




  On Mar 18, 2009, at 12:48 PM, Kyle Munz wrote:


    The only problem is a gallon of water is more than a gallon of gas ;)

    -Kyle


    On Wed, Mar 18, 2009 at 12:12 PM, stanley/ Randolph <[email protected]> 
wrote:

      The higher the compression ratio, the more likely you need higher octane 
fuel.  You can overcome that neccessity with water injection, however, which 
lowers the temprature and at the same time makes a more complete burn because 
the fuel droplets surround the water droplets, being lighter; and when they 
burn, the water absorbs some of the energy and becomes steam very rapidly which 
makes the remaining  unburned fuel droplets even smaller, so they burn faster 
and the burn completes before the flamewall gets to the top of the piston and 
through it, theoreticallyTo understand more clearly, picture a log.  It takes 
it a loong time to burn, like overnight, for instance, in a Jotul stove.  Now 
picture some wood shavings.  They are not only easier to ignite, they burn 
quite fast by comparison.
      The gasoline gets "atomized" either by a carburetor or fuel injectors.  
The finer the droplets, the better the burn.  
      Weber makes fine carbs that will cause the fuel to extract more power out 
of the same engine because the fuel comes out in such a fine mist.  Sometimes 
it is so much more power that it is noticeable when you hit the gas.  The 
engine will use less fuel, also, because more of what it gets, gets burned 
before the exhaust valve begins to open.
      Beetle engines came from the factory with about a 7.9:1 C/R.  They can 
use 87 octane. 
      If I were to up that compression in my engine to 10.5 or more, I would 
either have to use premium or add water injection.  I choose the latter because 
I get more performance and nearly double my mileage from about 31 - 32 to about 
58, give or take; plus, the engine stays cleaner; and unless you add an 
aftermarket filter on a Beetle, that's important, because they have no filter 
and I used to change my oil every 1500 miles.  That wasn't so expensive, 
because Beetles only use 3 qts. of oil.  Just a little more than a Nighthawk..
      Actually, what Kyle said below is essentially the same thing; I didn't 
notice he wrote it after you asked the question (lol).
      And Kyle - I know of a chap who replaced the pistons in his Ford Focus 
with hi comp - 12.7s - and added water injection.  That's all he did, and it 
increased his power (don't know how much, but a lot; no dyno) and his mileage 
went from 25 mpg to 50.  This, on regular 87 gas.
      Kinda like NOS without the risk of blowin' yer engine...

       
      Stanley





--------------------------------------------------------------------------
      From: Javier Garcia <[email protected]>

      To: [email protected]

      Sent: Tuesday, March 17, 2009 10:31:00 AM

      Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Gasoline, octane and oil



      Stanley, I'm a little bit confused... in your first message it seems to 
me you don't agree in using high octane gasoline... in the second, you talked 
about engines damages due to the use of low octane gasoline... can clarify? I'm 
not really an expert, so I get lost very easily. 
      Thanks, Javier.


      On Tue, Mar 17, 2009 at 11:11 AM, Kyle Munz <[email protected]> wrote:

        I used to run into the same problem with my turbo cars. The higher the 
boost the higher the octane rating you needed since it effectively ups the 
compression. Most ppl understand octane meanings backwards. It actually means 
it's less likely to ignite, which is good if you're running high compression, 
or high boost. With higher gas prices I understand people wanting to put the 
cheap stuff in, but like Stanley says, newer cars will retard the timing when 
they detect knock, which means they burn more fuel anyways, so you didn't save 
as much money as you would have liked. One of the benefits of ethanol is a very 
high octane rating, so you could run really high compression or really high 
boost, and thus get more power, however this just isn't feasible for road cars 
now matter how much the corn lobby thinks it is. Long and short of it is, just 
put in what the manufacturer suggests, if the engine was designed for lower 
octane then put that in the tank. If you want to put "the good stuff" in your 
tank, then go to a name brand station, such as chevron/texaco, exxon/mobile, or 
shell and stay away from the discount dealers. This applies no matter what 
octane you decide to buy.

        -Kyle 




        On Tue, Mar 17, 2009 at 10:47 AM, stanley/ Randolph 
<[email protected]> wrote:

          If you know the research about octane and flamewalls and compression 
ratios, you would have a different attitude about that.  Low octane fuel will 
demolish a high comp engine. I have taken apart Porsche engines they were 
putting in Beetle vans, with the rings all cracked and melted into their 
landings from using low octane for their compression ratio.  And this despite 
the decal by the gas tank stating a minimum of 92 octane!!!
          This engine was still running, but I have seen engines with holes in 
the heads, the pistons, one which was ruined beyond repair with the hole 
outside of the valve insert.  It is not good if you use low octane in a high 
comp engine.  The flame wall is meeting the piston as it comes up, and when the 
heated wall of fire hits the piston and you hear the knock, back off, or you 
will ruin your engine.
          The engines today have knock sensors sending data to the computer to 
retard the timing when the flamewall gets too close to the piston crown.  When 
timing was only a mechanically actuated centrifugal advance, one couldn't 
actually retard it, so the only thing one could do is back off the gas, or go 
around with permanently retarded timing, which defeats the purpose of higher 
compression: greater engine efficiency and/or more power.
          An old wrench gave me an engine for taking it out of this van he 
bought cheap and that's what I found when I took it apart.  Happy to say, 
though, bottom end was excellent.  Nice thing about those engines -  is it was 
not too expensive to replace those pistons and cylinders.  I had me a new 
engine for the labor and $80.00 for new set of P&C and a valve job with new 
exhaust valves. Gasket set was the second most expensive item: $29.00;  for 
regular Beetle engines the gasket set was only $4.00, and a new set of P&C was 
less than $40.00 for Brazilian Cima/Mahles or a Jap brand name escapes me), 
both of which were close to German quality.
          The only safe thing to do when rebuilding the Porsche engines is to 
lower the C/R, because people think, it's just a VW (van/microbus).  It doesn't 
really need premium gas.
          Until, of course, it's usually too late...

          Stanley





----------------------------------------------------------------------
          From: Creative Residential Designs <[email protected]> 

          To: [email protected]

          Sent: Tuesday, March 17, 2009 7:37:45 AM 

          Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Gasoline, octane and oil



          Try telling that to my '69 GTO, Dick. It will NOT run on anything 
else...period. It doesn't care what you or I think about premium gas, it will 
ping and knock and carry on until I feed it the best gas there is. (Texaco or 
Shell premium ONLY).
          I just read a study on gas on the 'net as well. Interesting how 
abrasive low-end fuels are to an engine. I'll try and locate it again. 
Apparently it's one of those "you are what you eat" situations. HotrodMamma.
            ----- Original Message ----- 
            From: Dick MacInnes 
            To: [email protected] 
            Sent: Monday, March 16, 2009 9:10 PM
            Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Gasoline, octane and oil


            The only place to get the proper service Manuel is Helm. Inc
            And premium gasoline is a waste of money, I don't care what anyone 
has told you.

            Dick























  

--~--~---------~--~----~------------~-------~--~----~
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
To post to this group, send email to [email protected]
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
[email protected]
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en
-~----------~----~----~----~------~----~------~--~---

Reply via email to