Oil changes in cars are overrated. I change my car oil about every
40,000 miles or so. I don't use synthetic, I jut top it off with what
ever oil the are selling at the gas station I'm at. I have had two
cars over the last 15 years both of which had over 200k miles on a
good running engine when I traded them in. I also ran them hard their
entire life. One was a mazda the other a honda. I can understand an
air cooled motorcycle that uses it's engine oil for the transmission
needing regular oil changes. But I still can't see paying the same
price for a quart that I can get a gallon for. That's my opinion
anyway.

On 6/25/10, Joey Kelley <[email protected]> wrote:
> Graham,
>             I haven't done it - yet - in my NH - however  - I see no
> reason the effect it had on my car engine wouldn't translate to an air
> cooled engine. The reason behind the better gas mileage, more power,
> lower operating temperature is very simple - reduced friction within
> the engine. No one has been able to dispute that a synthetically
> constructed lubricant has a lower friction point than a refined crude
> based lubricant. I think the debate is really over if it is 'worth it'
> either $$ wise or in engine life / performance.
>             That is really a question that as an Amsoil dealer I would
> have told you yes - it was worth it. As an ordinary man to man, I
> think it depends greatly on the situation, if its a leased vehicle
> you're going to turn in and will then be someone elses problem -
> probably not. If its a vehicle that has high mileage and is already
> showing some issues - again - this isn't a magic cure-all for engine
> problems. However, if your vehicle has moderate mileage and no obvious
> known issues, Synthetic oil can provide some tangible benefits. Cold
> starting (again, probably not relevant here) being the most obvious /
> easiest to demonstrate.
>             One thing to be wary of - the 'Synthetic blend' oil -
> these are synthetic additives on top of a crude oil. They generally
> provide no mileage guarantee over a traditional oil and cost more. I
> would make the statement that the additives are better - however, this
> is is sort of like wearing half a leather jacket. It doesn't work too
> well. I recommend either going fully synthetic or staying fully
> traditional - either one is fine - both have their advantages and
> disadvantages.
>              I will not go into the political realm that often comes
> up in this area - I am trying to remain informative and neutral here.
>              I will make one comment on the subject of 'reducing our
> dependency on foreign oil' - although I wouldn't make the statement
> that all lubricating oil comes from overseas - it is safe to assume
> that at least a fair percentage of it does. If we went to synthetic
> lubricants, exclusively, from any manufacturer, we would reduce our
> dependency on oil, foreign or domestic.
>              If anyone has further questions - I'll answer them off
> list - I understand we're not in the business of using this list as a
> soapbox for which sort of oil works best.
>              On a personal note - one earlier 'oil thread' lead me to
> realize the problem I've been having with clutch slipping is directly
> related to the cheap oils I've been using in the bike of late. I won't
> be doing that again. Next time around, it will be a change of Amsoil.
>              -Joey
>
> On Fri, Jun 25, 2010 at 6:09 PM, Graham Rogers <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Very good Joey,  do you think Amsoil would reducing engine temp in an air
>> cooled m/cycle?  I should say has anyone tested to see if it does reduce
>> the
>> engine temp?  Graham
>>
>> On Jun 25, 2010, at 4:35 PM, Joey Kelley wrote:
>>
>>> Graham and All,
>>>            I am not a chemist - nor do I play one on TV - but - I do
>>> live in one of the colder states in the US (by colder I mean that we
>>> do get snow and that the winter temperatures often hover around or
>>> below freezing) so I do have the occasion to see one of the major
>>> benefits of Synthetic oil, cold weather starting. This doesn't apply
>>> (I Hope!) to anyone on a motorcycle but it did prove the concept to
>>> me.
>>>            First the background and financial benefits:
>>>            I used to have a 2003 Pontiac Grand Prix with a 3.1L V6. I
>>> ran 3000 miles on conventional oil changes for many miles. I began
>>> looking at the prices one day on a Mobil 1 Synthetic change and
>>> discovered that the price was less than double what my conventional
>>> changes were costing me. In other words if I ran 6,000 mile changes, I
>>> would be ahead of the game. I went for it. I only did two changes with
>>> Mobil 1 and a friend, and Amsoil dealer, mentioned Amsoil to me and
>>> offered me a case at a good price. I ran my first oil change 10,000
>>> miles on Amsoil and the oil didn't appear to have broken down at all
>>> on draining. I vowed to run that next change for 12,000 and wound up
>>> trading the car in before I had to drain it again. I assume that the
>>> oil would have been good as new. I determined that the Amsoil was
>>> costing me approximately three times as much as a conventional name
>>> brand oil - but I was running it four times longer. In effect, a 25%
>>> savings.
>>>            Here was the difference in performance:
>>>            Operating temperature of engine:
>>>            Conventional - 210 degrees
>>>            Mobil 1 - 200 degrees
>>>            Amsoil - 190
>>>            Gas mileage increase:
>>>            Conventional - 0
>>>            Mobil 1 - 2 MPG average
>>>            Amsoil - 5 MPG average
>>>
>>>            The real proof one day that the synthetic had superior
>>> cold temperature performance was the day I went out to start the
>>> Pontiac in -30 degrees F temperatures. I was running Severe Service
>>> 0w30 Amsoil at the time and I put the key in the ignition and turned
>>> it and the engine fired right up. Just like it was 50 degrees outside.
>>> I left the engine idling for a few minutes and when I shifted the
>>> automatic transmission (still conventional lube) into reverse it took
>>> about 30 seconds to shift into gear. It hit hard when it did too.
>>>            I did have one experience a few years earlier with my
>>> Dad's 1987 HD FLHTC. It had been modified with domed pistons and HI po
>>> cams, valves, heads etc. (Stage II Screaming Eagle Kit) The starter on
>>> the 87 Hogs was known to be weak and the bike would often have to be
>>> jumped if it didn't fire right away. In an attempt to make it easier
>>> to start, we put Mobil 1 V-Twin synthetic oil in to the old beast. Not
>>> only did it improve the starting characteristics, we actually had to
>>> drop the idle jet down by about 33 percent, proof that the reduced
>>> friction was in fact working.
>>>             Just my thoughts and experiences - prices and such may
>>> vary as all of this was at least three years ago.
>>>             -Joey
>>>
>
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