I agree. I just changed oil in 750 2-3 months ago. Originally used castrol 10-30, as had been before. Bike clattered horribly. Changed that out with Rotela T & 8oz. Of Lucas oil stabilizer. All is good now.
Thank you, Ross -----Original Message----- From: "nighthawkin" <gswannab...@gmail.com> Sent: 8/17/2013 10:17 AM To: "nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com" <nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Acceleration or Throttle problem in lower gears walmart has the rotella t5 also. $16.00 for 1 gal. http://www.walmart.com/ip/Shell-ROTELLA-T5-10W30-Synthetic-Motor-Oil-1gal/20573564 On Sat, Aug 17, 2013 at 11:13 AM, Graham Rogers <grahamjoanrog...@gmail.com> wrote: if the drain plug washer is intact then no need to replace it. , Graham On Aug 17, 2013, at 11:05 AM, R. Campbell wrote: So, is this the type of oil I should get? http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_rotella-t-10w-30-heavy-duty-conventional-motor-oil-%281-gallon%29-shell_8120024-p?searchTerm=rotella+10w-30#fragment-3 Or should I get the synthetic kind? Is one better for my bike than the other? Also, where do you get the drain plug washers? The Haynes manual I have says to replace them at each oil change, but it doesn't list a part number or anything. Questions! Questions! Questions! :) On Sat, Aug 17, 2013 at 8:38 AM, nighthawkin <gswannab...@gmail.com> wrote: h.d. 30 oil would be to thick of a oil. h.d. 30 oil is more for something that runs at full throttle like your lawn mower or a generator. or if you were to race on a track and then I could see using it. but for the average rider you really want a muti weight oil. imho of coarse. On Sat, Aug 17, 2013 at 7:28 AM, paul annen <greenzer...@gmail.com> wrote: The yahama product is basically M.E.K. (methelethelkeytones, or aircraft paint stripper) works great, but use with extreme caution. The 250 has no tach and caused me great headaches when i had mine.... I just delt with it tho. The 250 is also air cooled, so i recomend generic h.d. 30 oil and frequent changes due to not having an oil filter i.could find. On Aug 16, 2013 11:09 PM, "nighthawkin" <gswannab...@gmail.com> wrote: bikes with thick oil have this issue also. I can see it being more difficult with a 250. rotella 10w30 is more than enough protection. not to mention it will get you better mpg's. On Fri, Aug 16, 2013 at 11:05 PM, Graham Rogers <grahamjoanrog...@gmail.com> wrote: Doesn't sound normal to me but I did have a Honda Rebel 250 that did that - even after I cleaned the carb so it may be normal for that engine, Graham On Aug 16, 2013, at 9:00 PM, Rachel Campbell wrote: First of all, hot damn, you totally CAN put the side stand down in neutral! This is a life changing discovery. You guys are my heroes. Second of all, the choke thing. This helped! I started the bike, choke all the way on. After a couple minutes, I went down to 3/4 choke, another couple minutes, then to half choke for another couple minutes. I took off riding with half choke on. Wow! What a difference! I have never had that much power in the low gears. :) However, after riding for 5 miles, I tried to shut the choke off, but it wanted to die, so I kept it on for another 2 miles until I could pull over. I closed the choked and then it died. But, I was able to start it right up without choke. Then when I took off, it did the little dead zone thing from first to 2nd, and then by the next stoplight (about 1 mile later), it took right off and had a steady acceleration all through the gears for the rest of my ride. So, is that what it is then? I just need to warm the engine up a lot? Does that sound normal for a 250 to need choke on for 8+ miles of riding with choke? On Thursday, August 15, 2013 3:54:51 PM UTC-5, nighthawkin wrote: i think thats when trying to start it. once started and its running you can give it throttle with no problem and while riding. what i do is choke it to start it then after warmed up turn choke off, put in gear then choke it on again and ride. after a mile or 2 she should be plenty warm enough by then to not need choke. that is if in fact its just a cold running issue? On Thu, Aug 15, 2013 at 4:48 PM, Rachel Campbell <liket...@gmail.com> wrote: How can I tell how long I should leave the choke on? Also, during my MSF class they said not to open throttle if choke is open. I didn't think to ask why at the time. Is it okay to ride the bike with the choke open? How do I know when it would be ready to close it? Sorry if these seem like basic questions! I'm really new at this. On Thursday, August 15, 2013 2:44:48 PM UTC-5, Allen wrote: You are definitely turning off the choke too soon if the bike stumbles or dies when you open the throttle. The carbs do sound like they may be dirty though. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to nighthawk_love...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to nighthaw...@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to nighthawk_lovers+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com. 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