I suggest also to use cross bracing tack welded to keep cab in shape. Be careful where you lift so not to bend or distort.
Good Luck. Just my Thoughts, Walt ------------------------------------------------- --- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, "OC Radicic" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Gilbert, > Had a similar road with my 50 3600...replaced floor, toe board and cowels. > Some critical points to remember are: > 1. Use reference points as you tear down to assure your firewall holes align > and the firewall angle is rebuilt as it should be. Measure and record these > measurements of where the holes are on the original and the slope of the > metal..as they will affect your assembly of the fenders, and brake/clutch > pedal shafts, etc. Measure inside distances also...using permanent features > such as the battery box edge, emergency brake hole, and seat base as a > references. > > 2. I would suggest using the longer cowl repair panels as they give you more > options ...you can choose your cut lines at more convenient spots if your > rust is higher up. Of course the short ones work if rust is only on the > bottom. Mine extended almost up to the vents > > 3. I suspended the cab using my engine hoist pushing up on the interior > ceiling of the cab (Coming in from the side throught the window) with a > piece of 3/4 plywood adapted to my hoist to push up on the ceiling. (couple > of jack stands for safety) but this allowed welding underneath and took the > weight of the cab to prevent any deformation from it's own weight when you > remove the whole floor, toe pan and cowels. It gets pretty flexible when > that part is removed. I could also move it around the garage if needed. > Usually had to ask the wife for a hand there. > > 4. I tacked the floor first aligning on seat base/door frame, pulling the > toe plate in doing alignment/slant and then tacked in the sides. Don't > permenantly weld until you are happy with the holes, slant, etc. > > > The assembly manual does give some detail dimentions, but it was generally > for 54, and I believe the factory used some artistic license when they > assembled these trucks, so...suggest using your own dimentions along with > the manual just to assure the fenders and emergency brake assy marry up > well. > > Good luck! > Gary > 1950 Chev 3600 > Geneseo, IL > > >From: "buffulohunter" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Reply-To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com > >To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com > >Subject: [old-chevy-truck] rust repair > >Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2007 04:30:42 -0000 > > > >I need some advice regarding cab repair. Unfortunately, my cab has > >more rust than good sheetmetal, so I need to replace the toeboard, > >floorpan, and the cowl panels on both sides. Does anyone have > >experience replacing all these panels that they could share? Is there > >a particular order that they need to be replaced? I am looking thru my > >assembly manual for a more detailed picture. > > > >I realize that looking for a replacement cab would be more cost > >effective, but I have sentimental reasons for wanting to repair this > >one. > > > >Thanks, > >Gilbert > >51 3100 5 window > >Houston > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > http://imagine-windowslive.com/hotmail/?locale=en- us&ocid=TXT_TAGHM_migration_HM_mini_pcmag_0507 > Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
