You might have a parts truck on your hands.   If those
areas are rusty, so are the braces that support them. 
 On that site, you can buy a complete new metal cab
with doors for $9K.  Better to look around for as rust
 free truck as you can find.



--- buffulohunter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> That is what I was afraid of and pretty close to
> other guestimates.  
> For some reason the cab now holds less sentimental
> value. :)
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> Gilbert
> 
> 
> --- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, charles
> olson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
> wrote:
> >
> > Body shop estimate without seeing project vehicle:
> 
> > $6,000
> > 
> > Isn't there other parts of this truck that hold
> the
> > sentimental value that would allow for less
> investment
> > for a 25% of cab structure replacement?
> > 
> > 
> > --- buffulohunter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > 
> > > Thanks to all who responded.  It is very good
> > > information.  If 
> > > replacing all cowl panels, toeboard and floor,
> which
> > > would be the 
> > > recommended order?  Also, what would a rough
> > > estimate be for getting 
> > > a body shop labor.  I appreciate all feedback
> > > 
> > > Thanks,
> > > Gilbert
> > > 
> > > --- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, "K
> Ohlgren"
> > > <kjohlgren@> 
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Gilbert
> > > > replace panels one at a time to prevent the
> cab
> > > from warping or 
> > > twisting. if 
> > > > you cut out the floor, the steps, cab corners
> and
> > > rockers all at 
> > > once, you 
> > > > will have a problem. weld cross supports in
> the
> > > doors to hold their 
> > > shape. 
> > > > plan your attack. most panels i cut the cab
> and
> > > then cut the patch 
> > > to fit 
> > > > the hole. i cut my panels to lay in the hole
> with
> > > a 1/32 max gap,no 
> > > gap is 
> > > > better. this takes time but makes for easier
> > > welding. for the 
> > > panels; after 
> > > > you have the panel fitting well, take a piece
> of
> > > 18 or 20 gauge 
> > > metal 1 inch 
> > > > wide and the lenght of the patch. use drill
> point
> > > screws to screw 
> > > it to the 
> > > > inside of your cab, half on the cab, half in
> the
> > > hole (screws 
> > > coming from 
> > > > the outside) put the screws 2 inches apart.
> this
> > > gives you a flange 
> > > to fit 
> > > > and weld your patch against. fit your patch
> panel
> > > again, grind or 
> > > sand the 
> > > > edge to fit (again) then use more drill points
> to
> > > attach the patch, 
> > > add more 
> > > > screws if it puckers in or out to much. tack
> weld
> > > the cab-to-patch 
> > > butt 
> > > > joint. cross tack like your torquing a head,
> the
> > > more tacks the 
> > > better. if 
> > > > your fit is tight when you remove the screws
> the
> > > flange should pull 
> > > right 
> > > > out. i learned the flange method after
> patching
> > > half my truck from 
> > > an old 
> > > > time body guy. made the other patches go in
> better
> > > and look a lot 
> > > better 
> > > > too.
> > > > 
> > > > Kurt
> > > > 58 3100 Apache project
> > > > the "Duracell Project" it keeps going... and
> > > going...
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > >From: "buffulohunter" <gmontes5@>
> > > > >Reply-To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
> > > > >To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
> > > > >Subject: [old-chevy-truck] rust repair
> > > > >Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2007 04:30:42 -0000
> > > > >
> > > > >I need some advice regarding cab repair. 
> > > Unfortunately, my cab has
> > > > >more rust than good sheetmetal, so I need to
> > > replace the toeboard,
> > > > >floorpan, and the cowl panels on both sides. 
> > > Does anyone have
> > > > >experience replacing all these panels that
> they
> > > could share?  Is 
> > > there
> > > > >a particular order that they need to be
> replaced?
> > >  I am looking 
> > > thru my
> > > > >assembly manual for a more detailed picture.
> > > > >
> > > > >I realize that looking for a replacement cab
> > > would be more cost
> > > > >effective, but I have sentimental reasons for
> > > wanting to repair 
> > > this
> > > > >one.
> > > > >
> > > > >Thanks,
> > > > >Gilbert
> > > > >51 3100 5 window
> > > > >Houston
> > > > >
> > > > 
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
_________________________________________________________________
> > > > Need a brain boost? Recharge with a
> stimulating
> > > game. Play now!  
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
http://club.live.com/home.aspx?icid=club_hotmailtextlink1
> > > >
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!
> > > 
> > > To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject,
> no
> > > body, just the email), to: 
> > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > > 
> > >     (Yahoo! ID required)
> > > 
> > >
> mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> >        
> > 
>
______________________________________________________________________
> ______________
> > Choose the right car based on your needs.  Check
> out Yahoo! Autos 
> new Car Finder tool.
> > http://autos.yahoo.com/carfinder/
> >
> 
=== message truncated ===



       
____________________________________________________________________________________
Be a better Globetrotter. Get better travel answers from someone who knows. 
Yahoo! Answers - Check it out.
http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396545469


Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!

To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to:  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/

<*> Your email settings:
    Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:
    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join
    (Yahoo! ID required)

<*> To change settings via email:
    mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
    mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
    [EMAIL PROTECTED]

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
    http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
 

Reply via email to