Hi Paul ...

Allow me to present another side of your suggestions, although they are
good ones.

First, I'd recommend against HC-110 and stick with D-76 or ID-11 as the
first developers, since they are, essentially, the benchmark by which
other developers are measured.  From there I'd experiment with other
choices.

The Kodak Darkroom Dataguide is a good book - I use it myself - but, of
course, it's very Kodak-centric.  So, I'd suggest supplementing it with
The Film Developing Cookbook, which has both a broader and a deeper
range.

I'd also suggest using distilled water for mixing the developer and in
which to develop the film.  Your suggestion of distilled water for the
final rinse is a good one, too.

Kodak's Photo-Flo is no longer used here.  Edwal makes what many seem to
feel is a better, more economical product, Edwal LFN.  Comments on the
subject of wetting agents and rinsing and drying techniques can be found
here:

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=000pE8

I'm posting this not so much for you, but for Gabe, the original poster,
as the discussion there touches on a few aspects of technique.  Us
old-timers have our routines pretty well set.

Paul Stenquist wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> Stop in at a good camera store and get yourself a copy of the Kodak Darkroom
> Dataguide. It will list recommended developers and other chemicals needed to
> process that Tri-X . It also provides good instructions. You'll see the book
> includes developmeent times for the  various films. If I were you, I'd try Kodak
> HC-110 Developer (easy to mix), stop bath, and a rapid fixer. When you're
> purchasing chemicals, you should also ask for a bottle of hypo eliminator (Orbit
> is the most popular brand),. If you're water is less than pristine, get some
> distilled water for your last rinse. If you use tap water, buy some Photo Flo
> solution to add to the last rinse. Once you've had some experience, try different
> developers. Kodak D-76 mixed 1"1 with water works very well for Kodak, as do a
> number of products from other manufacturers. But the best way to start is to go
> with the Kodak book and the Kodak chemicals for your first attempt. It's a much
> more comfortable learning curve when you have that much help.

-- 
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
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