Mike Johnston said:<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> It certainly agrees with
my anecdotal evidence. I once brought home from the store five brand-new
lenses--an El-Nikkor 50/2.8, a Schneider Apo-Componon-S 45mm, a
Componon-S 50/2.8, a Rodagon 50/2.8, and an Apo-Rodagon-N 50/2.8--and
tested them all directly against each other. The Apo-Rodagon-N was the
clear winner, and the Schneider 45mm was so decentered that it was
obvious it was flawed even without careful testing. It was the second
sample I'd used of that lens and both samples were, in Ctein's terms,
"real dogs." <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Mike,<br /> <br /> <br /> <br />
Can you tell me how you could tell the Schneider was decentered? Are you
saying the lens elements were not aligned and not that the lens was not
aligned with the rest of the enlarger? <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Any
other tips on how to check an englarging lens?<br /> <br /> <br /> <br />
thanks<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> dave (the lurker)<br /> <br /> <br />
<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Schneider has since replaced that lens
altogether. <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> I'm a real fan of the
Apo-Rodagon-N's, although the 105mm I tested was not <br /> <br /> any
particular standout. I only sold my Apo-Rodagon-N 50/2.8 when I replaced
<br /> <br /> it with the Carl Zeiss S-Orthoplanar 60/4, a lens which was
about eight <br /> <br /> times more expensive when it was new. <br />
<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> > The other thing is that some lenses
perform better, and are designed for <br /> <br /> > optimum performance,
at certain magnifications or distance from the <br /> <br /> > baseboard.
So you might want to compare the lenses with that in mind. <br /> <br />
> You might find one works best for smaller prints and the other for <br
/> <br /> > larger prints. <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> The big problem
here is that most darkroom workers--certainly beginners--are <br /> <br
/> not capable of employing enlarging technique good enough to see the
<br /> <br /> differences. Hell, most darkroom workers stop their
enlarging lenses way <br /> <br /> down, well past the optimum f-stop, so
the grain is mush anyway. I'm sure <br /> <br /> you've done this, Shel,
but for the benefit of others: if you take a very <br /> <br /> good
grain focuser like the Omega/Peak #1 and simply look at the film grain
<br /> <br /> as you stop the enlarging lens down, there's usually a very
obvious optimum <br /> <br /> f-stop--starting at wide open in the center
of the projected image the grain <br /> <br /> might go from indisctinct
to crisp to very crisp to less crisp to mushy to <br /> <br /> very mushy
as you stop down. <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Diffraction is a MUCH
bigger problem in the enlarging system than in camera <br /> <br />
lenses. The only reason to buy "apo" enlarging lenses is that they are
<br /> <br /> diffraction-limited half a stop or a full stop wider open.
Any lens that <br /> <br /> allows you to print wider open will be
better--Ctein and Arthur Kramer, the <br /> <br /> lens guru from _Modern
Photography_ who started all this lens-testing <br /> <br /> business way
back when, used to have a running argument about which was <br /> <br />
better--Arthur's Apo-El-Nikkor 105mm, which was diffraction limited wide
<br /> <br /> open at f/5.6, or Ctein's garden-variety but tested and
hand-picked <br /> <br /> Rodagons, which were diffraction-llimited at
f/4.5. Arthur actually won that <br /> <br /> argument when Ctein finally
got to test an Apo-El . But Ctein had a good <br /> <br /> point. <br />
<br /> <br /> <br /> My S-Orthoplanar is diffraction limited wide open.
It beats the <br /> <br /> Apo-Rodagon-N by half a stop. Awesome lens.
<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - -- Mike <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> "Ain't
photography grand. The more you know the less you know." (Shel <br /> <br
/> Belinkoff) <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> * * * <br /> <br /> Find out
about Mike Johnston's unique photography newsletter, "The 37th <br /> <br
/> Frame," at http://www.37thframe.com<br /> <br /> <br /> <br />

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