Walt,

I've done a little of this type of work... here are a few thoughts for you...

- Currently, I use the fa 100 macro, which I like a lot for shooting
small things, like beads.  But, I've used a shorter lens in the
past... a 50 might be better, if you are trying to get a shot of a
whole necklace, etc...
- Use a tripod.  You'll want enough DoF to show the entire piece in
enough detail, so stopped down apertures (I usually go f8-13),
especially at close range. Then you don't have to worry about slow
shutter... and it will help with sharpness, too.
- Watch out for reflections in silver/shiny pieces.  A white
posterboard or sheet placed strategically can minimize the chances
that your surroundings will be visible in the jewlery's mirror-like
surface.
- Have  you thought about using a lightbox?  You can make one yourself
for very little $$, and you can use it with natural light, strobes, or
even desk lamps.  Check this out:
http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/07/how-to-diy-10-macro-photo-studio.html

Have fun!

-c


On Mon, Dec 13, 2010 at 2:19 PM, Walter Gilbert <ldott...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>  Hi all,
>
> I have a friend who makes some really nice turquoise jewelry 
> (http://www.sisdesigns.com/) and she's asked me if I'd like to take a shot at 
> doing some photographs of her work for catalogs and design conference 
> submissions.  We've already worked on some rudimentary lighting and staging 
> for the pieces, and are going to do some experimenting today.  Before I jump 
> in, I figured I'd ask if any of you might have any pointers.
>
> Of course, I'll be shooting in RAW, and have decided to bracket the shots.  
> Beyond that, I wonder if it would be best to use my M-50/2, or my 18-55mm kit 
> lens, or something longer?
>
> Thanks for any advice anyone can offer!
>
> -- Walt
>
>
>
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