Using another flash to trigger studio strobes might work better with a
plain old pre-TTL flash mounted on the hot-shoe. Just look for one
without too high a trigger voltage.
I'm partial to Vivitar 285HV myself. The older "Made in Japan" models
are better than the later "Made in China" versions, which don't seem to
have the same durability.
On 4/22/2018 1:46 PM, Bruce Walker wrote:
Mark, what you experienced is one of the reasons I don't recommend folks
try that popup flash triggering hack. The other of course is the light
pollution from the popup flash getting into the shot and flattening the
contrast.
But you have at least two possible issues with each student's camera: the
x-TTL pre-flash, and the "red eye reduction" pre-flash. Either or both of
these might be enabled in any given camera.
The xTTL preflash is usually enabled even if manual exposure is in use
because of the possibility for remote flash control. I used to use that
feature with the K20D and the K-3 as a poor man's remote trigger. No danger
of the popup flash appearing in the shot because it doesn't fire when the
shutter is open.
But it only works with flashes that support a pre-flash -- manufacturer
dependent timing -- and some newer Chinese strobes that can be set to
ignore 1-n pre-flashes.
BTW, most PCB strobes come with a really long old-school PC-Sync cable.
That might have helped with any of the students cameras that have a sync
socket.
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