If it was not crumbling or "expanding" by now it probably will not later
so I would leave it. The problem is that the term "pot metal" actually
describes nothing. What was the actual formula that was used to cast
these bearings? What was the purity of the metals used? The lack of
dimensional stability is the result of impunities introduced at
manufacturer. The impurity content seems to have been random.
On 07/09/2011 09:24 AM, Bill Taney wrote:
Is there any reason you would ever leave a potmetal bearing in one of these
machines? I have always had it replaced whether it needed it or not figuring
that it is easier to do when its not siezed and it is an inevitablity so why
not replace it with a brass one... Am I missing something?
Sent from my iPhone
On Jul 8, 2011, at 11:42 PM, Rich<rich-m...@octoxol.com> wrote:
Potmetal continues to grow until it just crumbles. Reaming is a temporary fix.
As someone else pointed out the bearing has probably been lubed with 3 in 1 in
the red can which is a pure mineral oil with no rust or oxidation inhibitors
and just soaking with Kroil will usually get it going again. Not all potmetal
of that period is defective. Oxidized 3 in 1 is a powerful adhesive though.
On 07/08/2011 08:31 PM, Steven Medved wrote:
If I remember correctly the home and triumph pot metal bearings are thick, I
would think if the shaft could be removed the bearing could be reamed out to
the correct size and it could be used. Has anyone ever tried this? Steve
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