Common procedure, use it all the time. The lower the current the less
metal pitting though.
On 07/14/2011 10:14 PM, Vinyl Visions wrote:
I tried this method on a rusted gas tank from a 1973 Honda, with great success.
I was about to throw the tank out, since it sat in the basement of a house for
25 years full of gas that had turned to rusty sludge and the inside was caked
with layers of rust. When I found out that there were no repro tanks and
originals in usable condition were also non-existent, I decided to try this
method as a last resort. I let it sit in the solution for three weeks and now
have a rust free tank - most of the items we deal with on phonographs are
nowhere near this neglected condition, even at their worst. Here is the method,
hope this helps someone:
Electrolytic Rust Removal
Things that you will need:
·
Battery charger – 12 volt/10 amps or similar
(not a “smart charger” – just a plain old fashioned charger with a steady
output)
·
Arm& Hammer “Washing Soda” (not Baking
Soda) available at WalMart in the laundry supply department
·
A piece of scrap steel for the anode – a small
piece of rebar or concrete form stakes work well
·
Item or items to be de-rusted
·
Container (non-metallic) – large enough to hold
item(s) with some space around it/them
Instructions:
1. Add
water to the container deep enough to completely cover the item(s). Add approx.
1 TBSP of washing soda per gallon of water and stir until completely dissolved.
Washing soda is sodium carbonate and is said to be more effective than baking
soda (sodium bicarbonate), which may be used as an alternative if washing soda
is not available.
2. Insert
“anode” – (sacrificial scrap metal) into the container.
3. Set
up the battery charger by making sure it is “OFF” and unplugged. Then connect
the positive (red) cable to the anode, making sure that the cable clamp does
not touch the water. Connect the negative (black) cable clamp to the item being
cleaned and put it into the solution. If multiple items are being cleaned,
connect them together with copper wire and attach the clamp to one of the items
or the wire itself. Don’t let the item(s) being cleaned touch the anode!!!
4. When
you have everything arranged, turn on the battery charger. Small bubbles will
start to appear and the water will start moving – this indicates that everything
is working properly.
5. De-rusting
time will vary, depending on the size of the item, current used and the extent
of the rust.
6. To
speed the process, periodically turn off the charger and clean the accumulated
rust off the anode with a wire brush, etc. The brighter the metal on the anode,
the better it will work. I use a wire brush on my grinder to clean it from time
to time.
7. The
item being de-rusted will eventually turn a gray metallic color indicating the
rust has been removed, although sludge or gunk may accumulate on it. Rinse it
off with water and a brush to see the progress. If it is not clean enough, put
it back in the solution and continue the process. The beauty of this process is
that it does not eat away the metal from the item being de-rusted, only from
the anode.
8. Once
the item is clean, it must be protected from immediately rusting by coating it
with oil or a rust preventative.
This method will also remove paint, but will take longer to completely remove
it.
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