>I just have this feeling after careful dremeling, I'll have 4 anonymous
>yellow plastic lumps to use to make the next decision...

I posted a series of HOW-TO articles on Powerbook Battery Cell replacement
last year, hopefully accessible in the archives (I've never found the archives
myself, so I couldn't tell ya). It's pretty starightforward, though.

To open a 100 series case, put it in a vise and use a utility knife with a sharp
new blade to score around the panel where the label is. Do not use a snap-off
type of blade, but one of those solid trapezoidal classic types, or you'll be
snapping blades off continuously. Be patient, and score over the same line until
you cut through; this will take about a dozen passes for each side of the square
opening. If you try to force it, you'll distort the case, puncture the cells, and
perhaps slip and disembowel yourself.

Remove the cells and thermal breakers taped to them, take note of polarity, cell
size, and wiring. Order new cells (Batteries Unlimited has decent prices, and most
cells formats, and you can order through their site), and when they arrive, reassemble
the cells using the old pack as your guide, cell by cell, soldering the tabs together
AFTER you have taped them together with cellophane tape (you want thin tape).

Finally, stuff the package back into the case. You can use heat glue to reinsert the
panel you cut out, or pot the cells. To pot them, just trowel on silicone sealant,
piling it up over the original height of the panel. Be generous. When it's cured, you
can carve it cleanly flush with a carving knife in one smooth cut, and it'll look
pretty keen. I personally chose NOT to replace the cover, since the cells are jammed
in there pretty tightly anyway, and I wanted access in case problems developed later
(they didn't, but since the battery is inside the PB or inside the battery carry case,
no one's delicate aesthetic sensibilities are ever bruised).

I also built an external battery pack, with a current capacity of about 6 Amps at
7.5 Volts, which is great when I want to run the PB for several hours. In this case,
any battery cabinet you like would work, although I'd prefer to use a reamed-out PB
case (if I had one), because it would look at home parked under the PB. The hard part
here, is getting hold of the power plug for the model you're plugging into. The 500
series for instance, have some obscure 4-pin Klingon plug. The fearless would simply
swap the original jack on the motherboard for a 5-pin DIP jack, for which plugs are
readily available. Otherwise you have to scavenge one from a corpse.

The Good News is, both NiMH and NiCd replacement cells have greater capacities than
the original factory cells (progress!), so your overhauled pack will outperform the
original by about 20 minutes in Real Life.

I highly recommend replacing cells in all rechargeable battery packs, having had very
good results, consistently. Don't throw out those old battery cases; they're the part
that's impossible to replace, and are often no longer made, by anyone. Once the
existing stock is sold, that'll be it. I'd hate to have to scratch-build a battery.
It can be done, but it's no longer a practical issue, but more an obsessive hobby ;-)


Good luck with it. Hope you get as big a charge out of it as I did!


martin  

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