HERE IS WHAT I FOUND ABOUT checking for "key off" drain......Read #1



If this checks out, you should check whether or not the battery is holding a 
charge, or if something on the vehicle is discharging the battery. 

There are three likely scenarios to explain the problems you're having: 

  1.. A high parasitic draw ("key off" load).This can quickly discharge a 
battery and decrease its service life. This may be caused by a trunk light, 
cigarette lighter, clock/radio, alarm system or any other electrical device. 
Current drain on the battery can be checked with an ammeter. With the ignition 
off, disconnect one of the battery cables. Connect one ammeter lead to the 
battery and the other to the cable. The normal current drain on most vehicles 
should be about 25 milliamps or less. If the key-off drain exceeds 100 
milliamps, there's an electrical problem that requires further diagnosis. If 
you don't want to take your car to a mechanic, the easiest way to isolate the 
problem is to pull one fuse at a time from the fuse panel until the ammeter 
reading drops.
  2.. A problem with your battery is causing it to not hold a charge. To check 
this, remove the battery from the vehicle, charge it to the full voltage, wait 
12-24 hours then measure its voltage. Another faster, but less preferable way 
to do this, is to turn on the high beam headlights for 15 seconds, turn them 
off, wait five to 10 minutes, then check the voltage. If you measure the 
voltage of the battery the next day, week, or even a month later, the voltage 
should be close to the max voltages listed above. If the voltage holds when not 
installed in your vehicle but drops when it is in your vehicle, see #1 above.
  3.. The battery was somehow discharged, and your maintenance charger is not 
able to properly charge your deeply discharged battery. Please see the 
directions for charging a deeply discharged battery.
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: [email protected] 
  To: [email protected] 
  Sent: Friday, January 21, 2011 4:50 PM
  Subject: [QUAD-L] optima red top battery


  "You had people look at your van"  doesn't say a lot about the quality and 
professionalism of those in the trade that are certified specialist with a 
miliamperage draw meter.  The test is performed under the hood in the 
fuse/circuit breaker box... on each circuit.  The test is performed with the 
key or ignition off and done with the ignition on.  Its a timely process.  Not 
man people on the street can perform this specialized task.
  I can understand that.  So your resolve is to purchase a premium battery... 
and hope.
  I will also be there with you hoping.  I hope the company that sells you that 
battery has a 24/7 hotlines to service your emergency needs too.  If you have 
sensitive EMC control panel, jumping the primary battery is a NO, NO.  If you 
have a backup battery in your system, you can jump that, if needed.
  Best Wishes

  In a message dated 1/21/2011 1:59:42 P.M. Central Standard Time, 
[email protected] writes:
    Thanks everyone for your ideas.

    With all my EMC equipment and lift, I plan to buy the yellow top optima. 
I've had people look at my van and nobody coluld say if there is a trickle 
discharg happening or where. EMC now makes the 2nd battery usable if 1str 
battery dies. My old equipment with 2nd airplane battery will not take over to 
start the van. 

Reply via email to