The injector to manifold seals aren't O rings, they are about 15mm dia
made of silicone rubber and fit into holes on the manifold.
The ends of the injectors then locate into those.
I'm sure the plastic inlet manifold and metal manifold have different
seals which is why i'm wondering which ones you ended up with.
They can also leak if reused, we had that on Matthews car which we found
using the hose.
The charcol canister is under the boot floor but the solenoid is at the
rear of the engine bay attached via a vacumn hose.
Jim
On 10/06/2010 22:36, geoff ward wrote:
Hi Jim,
Nothing to report I am afraid. The one thing I was supposed to do,
check that the throttle butterfly closes completely, I have not had
the opportunity to do. I have had my first few days back at work and
it has been to wet in the evenings. Steve must be very busy at work
because he has not found time to reply to your previous posting. I
will do my best to answer your questions.
If the seals you refer to are small round rubber O rings, I do
remember them being in place.
We used red gasket sealant because we reused the old gaskets from the
aluminium manifold or in one case cut a new one from gasket paper, and
thought it would be best to use the sealant as well.
Did not check this valve, I think, but engine was working OK when in
the Escort.
Don't recall this canister or the solenoid on the manifold when we
stripped the Escort.
Regards, Geoff.
On 10 June 2010 10:01, Jim Hearne <j...@quantums.info
<mailto:j...@quantums.info>> wrote:
Any progress ?
Jim
On 07/06/2010 10:19, geoff ward wrote:
Hi all and thanks again for all the helpful suggestions.
Steve and I have checked and double checked through all that has
been suggested, every thing seems to work as it should
individually. The idle speed control vale has been thoroughly
cleaned again and checked to see that it works, then refitted
with a new gasket and that it receives input, electronically,
from its plug. Steve has checked all the connections with his
testing equipment, it's all beyond me!, and it all works. We have
reset the ECU yet again, despite spending all day Saturday trying
to get it to run properly, it still has the same problem.
Thank you Steve for all the time and effort you have put in so
far to try and fix it.
So if any of you have any further suggestions, we would be
pleased to hear them, as Carole and I are getting worried now,
with only one weekend to go before we head to Scotland.
Yours hopefully Geoff.
On 1 June 2010 22:59, geoff ward <carole.ge...@gmail.com
<mailto:carole.ge...@gmail.com>> wrote:
Thank you to all for your help and advice, I will do a bit
more checking and cleaning of contacts etc tomorrow. The
strangest thing,as Steve mentioned in his original post, is
that the engine idles perfectly
at around 900 - 1000 rpm (according to the XR2 rev counter)
when you first start it up. I have followed the method for
resetting the ECU 4 times know and it has had good idle speed
every time for the first stage of the reset, ie allow to idle
for 10 -15 mins (DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE) it only goes all
wrong after that! As soon as you start to drive it, that's
when it wont idle properly anymore.
Carole say thank you all.
Regards, Geoff.
On 1 June 2010 12:29, Steve Kodz <st...@h4-turbo.co.uk
<mailto:st...@h4-turbo.co.uk>> wrote:
We're getting a very bad idle with the Zetec in Carole's
2+2. With the idle
speed control valve connected from cold it will idle
nicely at around
1000rpm, if just left to idle and warm through. However
if you rev, or
drive that car the best idle to can get is between
2-3,000 rpm, which isn't
great :( The car also drives badly, having hesitation
and then you fight
the engine on the over run.
It is a lot better with the ISCV disconnected, but still
not great. The
idle is still a bit high, being around 1,200 rpm and it
still doesn't drive
that great.
We've tried resetting the ECU to re-program it and
Geoff's cleaned all the
electrical contact and the ISCV. Any ideas what else
needs to be done to
get this ready before the HHII?
Regards,
Steve
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