Hi Jim,

100% percent is a lot !

I am using a 5mm bar to lock the camshafts and then aligning the crank
pulley second slot with the ridge on the crank case.  Is that not all
I need to do ??

Now you have me wondering ?

Please tell me I'm wrong

Thanks

Trevor

On 17 Sep, 14:12, Jim Hearne <j...@quantums.info> wrote:
>   Are you 100% certain you are getting the timing right ?
> If you have fuel, a spark and compression then the only thing left is
> that the timing is wrong.
>   Are you using proper timing tools to set the crank and cam positions ?
> It's easy to get the cams 180 degrees out otherwise
>
> I can't think of a fault in the head that would affect all cylinders.
> A zetec will try and start on only 2 cylinders and will run happily on 3.
>
> Jim
>
> On 17/09/2010 13:39, Critter wrote:
>
>
>
> > Hi Mark,
> > yes, I was going to take out the cams and try another compression test
> > just to try and dismiss the theory about the valves letting by.
>
> > I have retimed or rechecked the cam timing a number of times.
>
> > thanks
> > Trevor
>
> > On 17 Sep, 13:11, markymark<markhax...@hotmail.com>  wrote:
> >> hi trevor are you taking the cams out to do compression test ?????
> >>    you should do the test with the cams in as it will tell you every
> >> thing is set up right ?
>
> >> On 17 Sep, 10:35, Critter<trevor.2.critten...@gsk.com>  wrote:
>
> >>> Hi All,
> >>> I started a thread back in December 2009 with regards to my H4 not
> >>> starting, to re cap.
> >>> 1.8 Zetec engine, when I bought the car the head had been skimmed and
> >>> reassembled but would not start.  After trying many and various
> >>> suggestions by the group I finally dis-assembled the engine and found
> >>> nothing conclusive.
> >>> Fast forward to July: I obtained another 1.8 zetec engine from EBay,
> >>> swopped it over and it started first turn of the key, MOT'd and taxed
> >>> I ran the car for only a week and the head gasket blew ( make note not
> >>> to buy an engine from Ebay ) I then removed the head and transferred
> >>> all of the ancillaries from the second head to the original head as
> >>> that head had been skimmed and looked in good order.
> >>> Refitted it and now I'm back to the beginning of the original thread
> >>> i.e. good spark, plenty of fuel, timing is right, but the bugger wont
> >>> start !!.
> >>> I have checked compression which is there but lowish, but is even
> >>> across all cylinders, is it possible that after the head skimming the
> >>> valves are not seating properly, I was told that the valves had not
> >>> been touched.
> >>> Whilst trawling the net "as you do" I hit upon an old statement about
> >>> someone elses problems with no resolution that said: "Did the guys who
> >>> skimmed the head recut the valve seat then bed in the valves ?. Bet
> >>> your bottom dollar the car will start with a bump start but not via
> >>> the key. Check the compressions on crank, then whilst trying to bump
> >>> start, you will get next to nothing on crank, but spot on on bump
> >>> mode. had similar concerns myself. Its worth chekin before the head
> >>> comes back off!!!!!!!!"
> >>> I haven't tried bump starting as I believe you can kill the cat with
> >>> flooding with unburnt fuel, but the previous owner stated when I
> >>> bought the car that it had run when bumped.  I may try removing the
> >>> cams and checking the compression again?
> >>> Any other suggestions ?
> >>> just to recap the only part reused from the original engine is the
> >>> cylinder head.
> >>> Apologies for the waffle.
> >>> Many Thanks
> >>> Trevor- Hide quoted text -
> >> - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

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