here is one.....

http://fjr1300.info/howto/rivnut-tool.html

On Jan 6, 7:18 pm, jin <jinmys...@btinternet.com> wrote:
> oooh, if anyons got that link id love to see it
>
> On Jan 6, 5:04 pm, "Susan and Martin Scott"
>
>
>
> <susanandmar...@corringham99.free-online.co.uk> wrote:
> > If you get Complete Kit Car, there was a link in there a couple of months
> > ago to a webpage with instructions for making a simple tool for fitting
> > Rivnuts - It was very close to an ad for a tool for the same job....
> > probably didn't go down too well with the advertiser! Anyway, it's a simple
> > mandrel using a length of steel with suitable hole, and a nut and screw. I
> > made one up, and it easily worked (on GRP as well)
> > Martin
>
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "jin" <jinmys...@btinternet.com>
> > To: "Quantum Owners Group" <quantumowners@googlegroups.com>
> > Sent: Friday, January 06, 2012 9:05 AM
> > Subject: [Quantum Owners] Re: bulkhead refurb update
>
> > cheers for the reply jim, i hope that my fastidiousness can only be a
> > good thing LOL
>
> > i did look at rivnuts but decided against them mainly due to the cost
> > of the tooling (although some folk i work with can set them using a
> > nut and bolt, i tried several times and failed) and as i wanted rust
> > resistant inserts, hopfully the brass will be ok but ill see.
>
> > around the matrix holes the fiberglass is stained orangy brown and
> > looks a bit ropey, i dont want contamination in there so ill just trim
> > a few mm off round each hole once ive made the stainless plate which i
> > should get started next week fingers crossed
>
> > bye for now
>
> > On Jan 6, 8:44 am, Jim Hearne <j...@quantums.info> wrote:
> > > Hi Jin,
> > > I beginning to think you are even fussier than me !
> > > Have a look at rivet nuts (Rivnuts and various other spellings) for
> > > putting threads into the fibreglass as well.
> > > Even though you won't be able to expand them fully in the thick
> > > fibreglass you can expand them a little and bond them in in a similar
> > > way to your brass inserts.
> > > A countersink on the gelcoat side with let the normal top hat version
> > > sit flush, though you can get countersunk rivnuts they are less common.
>
> > > Whats the problem with the heater holes, they look ok in the pictures.
>
> > > Jim
>
> > > On 05/01/2012 22:37, jin wrote:
>
> > > > well despite suffering from a severe case of man flu ive done a fair
> > > > bit today, actually it made me feel slightly better
>
> > > > started with cleaning out all the bulkhead holes with various stiff
> > > > bottle brushes mounted in the drill and lots of loctite solvent
> > > > cleaner
>
> > > > [IMG]http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02346.jpg[/IMG]
>
> > > > this literally took hours to shift all the c++p out the holes like old
> > > > sealant and general ingrained grime, but the finished results are
> > > > worth it
>
> > > > [IMG]http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02351.jpg[/IMG]
>
> > > > [IMG]http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02352.jpg[/IMG]
>
> > > > the only holes beyond salvage are the 2heater matrix holes, i assume
> > > > at some point they leaked and the hot water / antifreeze has stained
> > > > and contaminated the bulkhead fibers, I've left them as they are at
> > > > the mo as a reference for the stainless plate, but once I've cut
> > > > corresponding holes in that ill chop out the damaged fiberglass
>
> > > > [IMG]http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02353.jpg[/IMG]
>
> > > > also pulled out the steering column bush as it was very sloppy but no
> > > > longer available from ford but i have a cunning plan.....
>
> > > > got some nice brass thread inserts to use instead of the self tappers
> > > > in the bulkhead like on the catch panel / wiper motor, i just don't
> > > > like the thought of self tappers munching up the fiberglass which has
> > > > already happened in places
>
> > > > [IMG]http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02348.jpg[/IMG]
>
> > > > these are brass M6, the holes need enlarging to about 8.7mm and i
> > > > found tapered reamers do a great job without ripping the gel coat off
>
> > > > [IMG]http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02349.jpg[/IMG]
>
> > > > ill araldite the inserts in place to give a permanent and sealed
> > > > thread
>
> > > > inside i spent ages scrubbing away at the inner bulkhead ready to seal
> > > > up all the cut holes
>
> > > > [IMG]http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02350.jpg[/IMG]
>
> > > > and now its looking to too far off
>
> > > > [IMG]http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02355.jpg[/IMG]
>
> > > > more to come soon.....
>
> > > > On Jan 1, 12:05 pm, jin<jinmys...@btinternet.com> wrote:
> > > >> thanks for all the tips and encouragement guys, it helps allot
>
> > > >> ill keep you posted on progress
>
> > > >> On Dec 31 2011, 8:05 pm, Ian Harrison<bighatp...@googlemail.com>
> > > >> wrote:
>
> > > >>> Looking god Jin, keep the updates coming!
> > > >>> I really need to spend more time in the garage...
> > > >>> Ian
> > > >>> On 30 Dec 2011, at 14:40, jin<jinmys...@btinternet.com> wrote:
> > > >>>> update
> > > >>>> ive removed the pop rivets and P clips that held the brake pipes on,
> > > >>>>http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02331.jpg
> > > >>>> they didn't fit too well and the pop rivets didn't go through the
> > > >>>> bulkhead so only served to swell out the fiberglass and let water and
> > > >>>> dirt in, evidenced by the dirt that had crept within the hole around
> > > >>>> the rivet, i chamferd the holes to remove the contaminated fiberglass
> > > >>>> and gelcoted from the outside with a thin layer
> > > >>>>http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02333.jpg
> > > >>>> then filled the rear with slow set araldite to seal the join and
> > > >>>> hopefully put a bit more strength back in
> > > >>>>http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02336.jpg
> > > >>>> the tape is just to stop it running out and keep it smooth
> > > >>>> cut out the first hole for my cable glands, i found a cone step drill
> > > >>>> very handy for enlarging holes (I'm using one of my extra? servo
> > > >>>> mount
> > > >>>> holes that were drilled but unused?) since they locate and don't
> > > >>>> wander about ripping the gel coat like normal twist drills, only
> > > >>>> thing
> > > >>>> to do is drill both sides sins the steps are shallow,
> > > >>>>http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02332.jpg
> > > >>>> tapped it out to the right size
> > > >>>> and sealed the fiberglass with araldite resin and wound the gland in
> > > >>>>http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02335.jpg
> > > >>>> then gave a wipe round the inside with more resin just to be sure,
> > > >>>> these should be very water proof now, this one will be for the wiper
> > > >>>> motor
> > > >>>> as for the brake pipes, I'm not too sure how I'm going to secure the
> > > >>>> P
> > > >>>> clips, I'm not going to use pop rivets fore sure, i may drill a few
> > > >>>> holes and tap a thread then wind in a stainless stud with araldite to
> > > >>>> seal unless anyone knows a batter way?
> > > >>>> cheers for any info
> > > >>>> --
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