If nothing else works, check if the wedge is made of an aluminum alloy. If 
it is, you can dilute it with caustic soda. Only use this method as a last 
resort since it has several major drawbacks. First of all, caustic soda is 
dangerous (always work with latex gloves and protective goggles). Second, 
it will dilute paint/powder coat (but it will not corrode steel). Third, it 
will mess up any alu alloy parts that it touches (some crown race plates 
are made of alloys. For example Miche's crown race plate for needle 
bearings is made of some sort of alu alloy). Fourth, the reaction produces 
hydrogen which is explosive, so NEVER do it indoors.

I used this method to remove a stuck bottom bracket once. I also used it to 
remove a stuck wedge from Miche's expander plug. In the latter case, the 
plug was made of steel, but the expander ring that came with it was alu, so 
the method worked. BTW, that was the time when I learned that Miche's crown 
race plate for needle bearings is made of alu alloy:) I had to replace it 
after it got corroded by a few drops of caustic soda overnight.



On Sunday, March 29, 2015 at 10:49:57 PM UTC+1, jinxed wrote:
>
> It possible the wedge is "wedged" into the thicker butted end of the 
> steerer. IF that's the case, going from the bottom of the fork will be the 
> best bet. Liquid wrench is a good idea too. Several times I've had luck 
> flipping it over, place the top nut of the HS on a block of wood, then use 
> a long heavy punch and a decent hammer or small sledge to TAP it up through 
> the steerer. Best done with a second set of hands to hold the bike steady. 
> A piece of rebar would work too. Once I broke it free of the thicker 
> steerer section it fell right out. 

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