the powdercoater company here in bellingham strips frames chemically and 
then you can have it sand or garnet blasted after that if you want. we have 
a local frame builder here too.

there is also a gentleman named Blake who will come out of his house and 
sandblast a frame in his carport for 25$.

how much money do you want to put into a beater frame you want for a 
lockuip bike? if you are going to put 100$ of shop time into aligning a 
frame
wouldnt it be cheaper and easier to pay 150-200 for a frame with better 
paint and straight, in the first place? or go with  powedercoating it and 
riding it 
for years till the alignment became a perceptable problem? not as much fun, 
to do it that way, ...

On Saturday, September 5, 2015 at 7:25:26 PM UTC-7, drew wrote:
>
>
> So i stumbled on a 1985 trek 870 frame and fork today and came home with 
> it for 30$. lugged, 48cm chainstays, tange prestige mtb tubing, my size. i 
> was and am pretty excited. part of the reason it was 30$ is because it is 
> pretty rough aesthetically. no dents (maybe slightly from a kickstand) or 
> cracks, but many scuffs and scrapes. rust on all the bare metal, inside and 
> out.  not extreme chunky flaky rust, but an even coat throughout. i bought 
> some "metal rescue" 
> <http://www.homedepot.com/p/Workshop-Hero-1-gal-Metal-Rescue-Rust-Remover-Bath-WH290487/203247483>
>  
> from home depot, with the intention of filling the tubes, flushing and then 
> framesavering. i taped up all the holes and filled the frame... but..
>
>
> *question 1-* anyone have recommendations for adequately closing up the 
> bottom bracket hole to make it water tight? i was getting an increasingly 
> leaky leak, preventing the metal rescue from sitting in the frame for the 
> several hours it takes to dissolve the rust. 
>
> while doing this, i realized that the seat stays are VERY slightly bent 
> near the canti post. im aware that this kind of thing happens with high 
> pressure, and since the bend is slight, im not too worried about it... 
> but...
>
> *question 2-*  should or could this be realligned by a frame builder? is 
> that a good option even? would one of those brake booster things prevent 
> this from getting worse? 
>
> as mentioned, the paint is very rough, so ill be having it powdercoated. 
>
> *question 3- *anyone in the Los Angeles area have a powder coater 
> recommendation? media blasting and powder coating seems to be what the 
> places around here recommend. i want to make sure that all the exterior 
> surface rust comes off and that it's done well. there seems to be a lot of 
> half assery with powder coating in my local area. 
>
> *sub question 3-* having all color options open for the repaint is almost 
> crippling. how does one decide? maybe i should just keep it the original 
> color or black. that would be less stressful. 
>
>
> here is the rivendell content: prior to owning a riv, i went through a 
> series of mid eighties treks. rebuilding them was what led me to the 
> rivendell website for parts, and eventually they all turned into poor man's 
> rivendell bikes. since then ive felt like there should be a representative 
> trek in the herd. my plan is to move the parts over from an 88 rockhopper 
> and turn this thing into a clem-like fun bike that can take the abuse of 
> bus/car racks without the clenching of teeth that occurs when my 
> hunqapillar gets scratched. 
>
> the good looking one isnt mine. 
>
> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-e_195Dx-JHk/VeujfrMbblI/AAAAAAAAAbs/kw1H1J33LOc/s1600/15603916010_d1d492b70d_z.jpg>
>  
> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0vbCRzoHoT8/VeujxwEdH4I/AAAAAAAAAb0/92XR4AdZvII/s1600/image%2B%25286%2529.jpeg>
>

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