Yikes.  Freezing water in your shift housing make it impossible to shift. 
 I haven't experienced that one (thank Lob).  Cold weather folks have to 
think about more things than I do.  

best
Bill

On Wednesday, November 4, 2015 at 10:05:22 AM UTC-8, Zed Martinez wrote:
>
> Mark: usually around 68cm or so. Depends on the shoes and pedals I use 
> most with the bike. I seem to like my saddle about 1-2cm lower than Grant's 
> method would recommend, but I definitely start getting some numbness and 
> hot patches in the balls of my feet if I have the saddle up that little 
> extra. Haven't measured this one yet, still dialing in the final. The 
> fenders are the SKS P55 ones. They just fit a charm with the 48mm 
> SwitchbackHills, which are the fattest road tires I plan to run. Wider will 
> be knobbies and I'll take the fenders off.
>
> iamkeith: I'm hoping it works, because I love the shape of the albastache 
> and how my hands drift and move across it better than any other bar, and 
> all the current alternatives from Riv suit me less (they generally have too 
> much rise near the bends which is really a sweet spot for me when I'm on a 
> good cruise, kick my wrist at weird angles and they start getting weird 
> fast. Curse my finicky wrists). That new choco-moose looks like it could be 
> a good solution for that down the road, much flatter through the bends, I'd 
> probably like that. Mostly, I have a roadster with north roads on it that 
> fall between the albastache and the albatross bars, and I find myself 
> wishing it let me go farther forward more often than I use it all the way 
> back on the grips, so, yeah, I'm hoping this splits that difference more. 
> Haven't ruled out needed to go to a 80mm Dirt Drop for the effective 65mm 
> reach instead of my 80mm Technomic though to really pull it off. I'll give 
> it the rest of the week and see if I settle into it. It's a neat posture, 
> you're way up in the air but still leaning a fair chunk forwards. I want to 
> like it, and nothing hurt or went numb, so, I think it'll work one way or 
> another.
>
> Bill: Whew, I tried. This is the third iteration of a project I've been 
> building and rebuilding around different frames the past two years. It 
> hasn't made it out on tour yet, but the stuff that I had on hand has 
> certainly survived the trials by fire to get here ;) I ran continuous 
> shifting because I ride year 'round in the midwest and I've had a couple 
> winters where slush and muck would get into the rear housing by the drop 
> and then promptly freeze 5 minutes after taking it out in the morning, 
> sticking me with a rather unwieldly 3 speed until I got to the office to 
> thaw it. It's just easier to run it continuous and have to change it out 
> less often, and I never miss a shift now no matter the temp. I haven't 
> tried the brakes yet, but they have a good inch or so they can drop before 
> they hit the rack, so, they will /probably/ work. But, if not, I'll live. 
> Usually if the front wheel is coming out it's flat anyway so it won't be a 
> major hindrance. But it should. I'll try tonight and report back.
>
> On Wednesday, November 4, 2015 at 12:47:25 PM UTC-5, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>> Looks like you thought of just about everything.  Best wishes getting 
>> acquainted.  
>>
>> Why did you run continuous shift housing all the way back to the Rear 
>> Der?  
>> Do your front brakes QR open enough to get your front wheel out?  Or does 
>> the rack get in the way?  
>>
>> Bill Lindsay
>> El Cerrito, CA
>>
>> On Wednesday, November 4, 2015 at 6:32:25 AM UTC-8, Zed Martinez wrote:
>>>
>>> Updated my photos with the complete build done (except wrapping the 
>>> bars, it's my couple days of fiddling with fit and dialing it in before 
>>> that). Tim, that Surly Nice Rack just barely fits, but fits it does. Had to 
>>> max out the bracket heights and it just barely caught braze-ons. Can't use 
>>> it on the upper braze-on at the fork end, it'll block QRs, so you have to 
>>> mount it where the fender would go and then mount the fender to the lower 
>>> rack bracket instead. Not a big deal, I've done that on the last two bikes 
>>> that rack lived on too. It's a tight fit at the mid fork ones, so, I 
>>> wrapped them with some tape first to minimize scraping and scuffing, but 
>>> all in all, was actually the easiest time I've ever had installing that 
>>> rack.
>>>
>>> Got in to work this morning and a coworker who admires Riv bikes and has 
>>> been waiting to see mine caught me at the door and insisted on getting my 
>>> photo with it. It's a nice looking rig all built up, but it'll take me a 
>>> couple more rides to get used to how it rides. With the albastache I have 
>>> about the same lean to the bars I did on my 650b Rivenfried mid-80's Fuji 
>>> this replaces, except the bars are like 5" higher up. My body is confused 
>>> because half of it's like my previous build and half is like my 3-speed 
>>> roadster. Rides pretty well though. Those Switchback Hill tires are dreams, 
>>> I tell ya. A little prone to wobble no-handed, I need to check the headset 
>>> adjustment and wheel stabilizer tension tonight. Otherwise, it's off to a 
>>> promising start.
>>>
>>>
>>> https://onedrive.live.com/?id=C37EE9A2EAE73EA9%21454124&cid=C37EE9A2EAE73EA9&group=0&authkey=%21AJFYm5zGTQyGk3U&v=photos
>>>
>>> Link again to the photos, just to save scrolling back and what-not: 
>>> https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/rbw-owners-bunch/bDrtVdwnZbs
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, November 3, 2015 at 1:10:44 PM UTC-5, Tim Wood wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Looks good Zed, nice build. I'm curious to see how the front surly rack 
>>>> looks on there, keep the photos coming!
>>>
>>>

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