The difficult part here is that, if you can't fully install/tighten the drive side crank without it hitting the chainstay, then it will be harder to tell how much longer of a spindle you need. I keep a box of worn-out bottom brackets, in different lengths, around for this purpose - always easier to start with something else as a starting point. Assuming the arms are symmetrical, you may be able to fully install the* non-drive* side and extrapolate from there how, far the drive side needs to move out.
Then there's the question of chainline. Typically, you want the middle ring to align with the center or slightly toward the bigger cogs of the cassette. Modern cranksets are all pretty much plug-n-play, but old ones were all different and took a lot of experimentation to figure out the best spindle length. That being said, I think that the huge chainstay length of the Clem probably makes alignment much less critical. If it were me, I'd be tempted try to get just enough space between the small chainring and the chanistay so that a sucked chain doesn't result in a jam and damage to the frame - even if it puts the crank outboard a bit further. But I like a wide Q-factor, too. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
