Will - your advice is exactly how i do it.  Then, since the axle cap can't 
be reinstalled with the BMX tool in there, I shore it up with a couple of 
fender washers to support it on the DS.  I have also thought about your 
suggestion to bore out the hole on the FR-6 tool to fit over the axle cap 
(I have a machinist friend with the lathe), but I fear that it may leave 
the remaining metal too thin to withstand the torque involved in removing 
the freewheel.  Might be worth a shot sometime, though.  They're not that 
expensive a tool…


On Tuesday, November 17, 2015 at 7:57:18 PM UTC-6, William deRosset wrote:
>
> Dear George,
>
> Can you pull the DS and leave the NDS (my non-track end-cap-swappable Phil 
> hubs are in VT these days, or I'd check) in place to locate the QR? All the 
> QR needs is to provide some preload to hold the splines prongs/splines in 
> place until the freewheel shifts a bit. Alternatively, you could throw your 
> freewheel remover on the lathe and bore it out a bit....
>
> Best,
>
> Will
> William M. deRosset
> Fort Collins, CO
>
> On Tuesday, November 17, 2015 at 5:32:08 PM UTC-7, George Schick wrote:
>>
>> Anyone out there know of a "BMX" freewheel removal tool that will work 
>> well with a Phil Hub?  Unfortunately, the center hole on a commonly used 
>> tool, like the Park FR-6, is not large enough to slip over the 
>> larger-than-normal axle caps of the Phil hub.  This means that the axle cap 
>> on the drive side must first be removed, which is not only an extra PITA, 
>> but then the removal tool has to sit against the notches on the freewheel 
>> without benefit of the QR skewer to hold it in place, risking the stripping 
>> of the FW notches in the process.
>>
>>
>>

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