I'm using their standard track rear hubs. One is on my surly steamroller
with 120mm spacing. The other is on a CX SS bike with 130mm spacing. Never
had a problem removing my freewheels, so long as I took the axle bolt out.

On Wed, Nov 18, 2015 at 3:25 PM, Peter Adler <divisi....@gmail.com> wrote:

> A little rooting around on Phil's site yesterday reveals that Phil Wood
> makes a BMX-specific hubset (100/110mm axles). For all I know, they may
> very well have made similar hubsets since the early '80s. I would assume
> that the purpose-built BMX rear hub(s) are designed to accept standard BMX
> freewheels, with removal to be done with standard tools. Phil recommends
> the White Industries ENO for the current hubset.
>
> My situation (and Gerorge's situation  too, sounds like) is a BMX
> freewheel mounted on a standard multigear PW freewheel hub. The Phil axle
> caps used on multigear and track hubs is substantially wider than
> traditional axles, to support the bearings better. I'm guessing that the
> axle caps/ends on the BMX hubs are different from the multigear/track ones,
> so that standard BMX FW removers can be used. Otherwise, Phil would make
> and sell FW removers for their own BMX hubs; it's not as if they haven't
> made tool-gizmos to fit their own special components in the past (cough
> cough *2 grades of BB cup tools* cough cough *2 different grease guns*
> cough cough *brand-specific lock ring tools* cough cough *hub preload
> bearing Dixie cup* cough).
>
> Mark, I take it you're using single-speed specific hubs - possibly
> BMX-specific hubs. If the OLD on the rear is 110mm, then it would have to
> be; Phil's standard road/track rear hubs have never been narrower than 120.
>
> Peter Adler
> Berkeley, CA/USA
>
>
> On Wednesday, November 18, 2015 at 11:59:36 AM UTC-8, George Schick wrote:
>>
>> Mark - Yep, you've got it exactly.  I'm just trying to figure out an easy
>> way to get the BMX freewheel tool on there without having to remove the
>> axle caps.  I have several SS freewheels and I like to interchange them
>> occasionally, depending on riding conditions.  You're solution works just
>> fine; call me lazy.
>>
>> David - You've got it exactly, too.
>>
>> On Wednesday, November 18, 2015 at 1:33:18 PM UTC-6, David Banzer wrote:
>>>
>>> I think folks are putting single speed freewheels on hubs designed for
>>> multi-speed freewheels, then having difficult getting the tool over the
>>> axle.
>>> David
>>> Chicago
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, November 18, 2015 at 1:15:29 PM UTC-6, Mark Reimer wrote:
>>>>
>>>> I'm a bit confused - I have two sets of Phil single speed hubs, both
>>>> with white industries freewheels on them, and I've used a plain ol Shimano
>>>> BMW freewheel remover to get them off. I remove the axle bolt, put the tool
>>>> on, and then thread the axle bolt back in to keep the tool engaged and not
>>>> slip. Works with hubs spaced 120 and 130. Is this the same situation?
>>>>
>>>> On Tuesday, November 17, 2015 at 8:23:43 PM UTC-6, George Schick wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> Curiosity got the best of me so I went down to the shop to take some
>>>>> actual measurements.  The opening on the FR-6 is 15.29mm; the PW axle cap
>>>>> diameter is 18.87mm.  So milling out the tool to about 19mm may not 
>>>>> involve
>>>>> removing as critical an amount of material as I feared.  I think I might 
>>>>> go
>>>>> after this solution.  BTW, from what little I know about machinist work,
>>>>> I'm thinking this would probably get done with a vertical milling machine,
>>>>> not a lathe.
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks all for your suggestions.
>>>>>
>>>>> On Tuesday, November 17, 2015 at 8:07:05 PM UTC-6, George Schick wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Will - your advice is exactly how i do it.  Then, since the axle cap
>>>>>> can't be reinstalled with the BMX tool in there, I shore it up with a
>>>>>> couple of fender washers to support it on the DS.  I have also thought
>>>>>> about your suggestion to bore out the hole on the FR-6 tool to fit over 
>>>>>> the
>>>>>> axle cap (I have a machinist friend with the lathe), but I fear that it 
>>>>>> may
>>>>>> leave the remaining metal too thin to withstand the torque involved in
>>>>>> removing the freewheel.  Might be worth a shot sometime, though.  They're
>>>>>> not that expensive a tool…
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Tuesday, November 17, 2015 at 7:57:18 PM UTC-6, William deRosset
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Dear George,
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Can you pull the DS and leave the NDS (my non-track
>>>>>>> end-cap-swappable Phil hubs are in VT these days, or I'd check) in 
>>>>>>> place to
>>>>>>> locate the QR? All the QR needs is to provide some preload to hold the
>>>>>>> splines prongs/splines in place until the freewheel shifts a bit.
>>>>>>> Alternatively, you could throw your freewheel remover on the lathe and 
>>>>>>> bore
>>>>>>> it out a bit....
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Best,
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Will
>>>>>>> William M. deRosset
>>>>>>> Fort Collins, CO
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On Tuesday, November 17, 2015 at 5:32:08 PM UTC-7, George Schick
>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Anyone out there know of a "BMX" freewheel removal tool that will
>>>>>>>> work well with a Phil Hub?  Unfortunately, the center hole on a 
>>>>>>>> commonly
>>>>>>>> used tool, like the Park FR-6, is not large enough to slip over the
>>>>>>>> larger-than-normal axle caps of the Phil hub.  This means that the 
>>>>>>>> axle cap
>>>>>>>> on the drive side must first be removed, which is not only an extra 
>>>>>>>> PITA,
>>>>>>>> but then the removal tool has to sit against the notches on the 
>>>>>>>> freewheel
>>>>>>>> without benefit of the QR skewer to hold it in place, risking the 
>>>>>>>> stripping
>>>>>>>> of the FW notches in the process.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> --
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