"The hard, cheap, Indian threading way, using Vise Grips for the lockring
and a nail and hammer for the cup" is one of the most fantastic
descriptions of anything I've ever read. Good point about Ashtabula cranks.
A guy came by the other day with one of those, and of course it was on a
ten-year old hundred-dollar (today's dollars) bike, but it was pared down
to nothing, not an unnecessary molecule of metal on it, and ... I though
wow, kind of neat. Bigger and more bearings inside would be good, but has
anybody ever ridden one of these guys to destruction?
No need to start a kickstarter campaign to bring back the bad-ol'
Ashtabula, but ... they are no laughing stocks.

On Tue, May 3, 2016 at 7:52 AM, Patrick Moore <bertin...@gmail.com> wrote:

> I learned to adjust left-side cups the hard way, cheap, Indian threading,
> using Vise Grips for the lockring and a nail and hammer for the cup. But I
> did get them adjusted.
>
> Interesting, at least the older British Racing Tricycles use leftside bb
> cups and lockrings at each inside end to adjust bearing play on the axle
> stubs. That's awkward, because you can't get in front of the assembly
> face-on, as you can with a bottom bracket.
>
> As for longevity: I hear that Campy and perhaps old Dura Ace cup and cone
> bb assemblies last as long as anything else out there? I do know that I've
> ridden at least 2 Phils in heavy rain and grit and, in one case, even
> submerged one in 2' of water, with no problems. But I too would probably
> choose a SKS for really heavy duty use.
>
> My vote for the best value-for-money crank/bb bearing assembly type is the
> Ashtabula; I wonder if these could be refined and lightened? Carbon fiber?
> But, in any event, they seem indestructible, even after riding through
> streams and watching muddy water flow out upon emerging.
>
> On Mon, May 2, 2016 at 2:37 PM, Grant Petersen <grant6...@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> The final adjustment takes some skill and time and experience and feel,
>> which is why nobody uses these as original equiment anymore. It cannot be
>> done with power tools, and you don't want a first-timer adjusting your bb.
>> Any conscientious individual can do it just fine, but it'll take many tries
>> and retries to nail the adjustment, because as you tighten the lockring
>> against the shell, it has the effect of pulling out (loosening) the
>> adjustment. So, you get what seems like a perfect adjustment, then you go
>> to lock it in and it loosens, and it loosens because the adjustable cup
>> gets pulled outward, away from the bearings.
>>
>> The skill and feel come in by knowing how too-tight to make it to account
>> for the loosening, and different bottom brackets and frames will require
>> different amounts. You sometimes try to hold the adjustable cup's
>> adjustment with the pin tool as you lock it there with the lockring, but
>> sometimes tightening the lockring makes the adjustable cup move, anyway.
>> It's the opposite of Plug-n-Play, but the thing is, it is NOT THAT HARD as
>> long as you don't require perfection on your first-thru-fourth tries. As a
>> home mechanic, you need to buy some tools. The fixed cup should be put in
>> with a shop tool, and new bike shops might not even have those anymore. The
>> cheap tools are the lockring tool and pin tool, and in the old days you
>> could get them both for $30 combined, but I don't know what it is these
>> days, and a normal bike shop won't stock them.
>>
>> --
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